I Wish I'd Learnt Greek

This evening I joined one of the Nicosia bike clubs on a sunset ride around Athalassa Park.  A beautiful evening to be out with about 40 other cyclists.  It's a great way for me to feel safe riding on lots of bush tracks where I mostly don't have a clue where I'm going.  I'm finding that on my solo rides I can't get very adventurous because of my horrid sense of direction.  Gradually I'll get more daring no doubt with time but I really need a cycling buddy.

Anyway, I had this thought as I was listening to all the cyclists chat on about who knows what.  I thought 'Oh how I wish I'd learnt Greek;  it would really help me get to know some other cyclists'.  It was a fleeting thought.  Only seconds passed and a kind cyclist came up beside me to practice his English.  I could be useful in that club after all!

An aborted climb

The view from the range on a clear day!

Last Sunday we set off with a few other families to climb Buffavento Castle, which is located on the mountain range to the north of Nicosia in the Turkish controlled territory.  Buffavento is situated at an altitude of almost 1000m, and has spectacular views of the island and all the way to the Turkish mainland on a clear day.  It stands between St Hilarion castle to the west and Kantara castle to the east, all of which were built in the 11th century as a defence against Arab raids.   As both of the other castles are visible from Buffavento, it was used to pass signals between them.  We've climbed St Hilarion castle several times, but alas Buffavento has eluded us until now.

The road to Buffavento travels close to the large Turkish-
Cypriot flag painted onto the mountains north of Nicosia 

Given the altitude of the castle the weather can change quickly.  We left Nicosia in bright sun, but by the time we had driven up the somewhat precarious path to the base of the climb (calling it a road would be generous!), we found ourselves in cloud we decided it would not be worth the climb to see nothing but fog. So we switched to plan B, which was to skirt around the northern side of the range and head for Bellapais.

Bellapais is a small village on the mountains above Kyrenia, and is the location for a beautiful old abbey that was build by monks in the 13th century.  Bellapais was also made famous by Lawrence Durrell, who lived there during the 1950's and wrote about it in his book 'The Bitter Lemons of Cyprus'.  The book makes reference to the 'tree of idleness', which was the place the villagers came to drink coffee each day (and all day)!  The supposed tree is still there today, and is understandably surrounded by a number of coffee houses and restaurants.

The Abbey at Bellapais
Author: www.martin-liebermann.de 
Prints from martin-liebermann.fineartamerica.com

An apt description of Bellapais can be found in the writings of W Hepworth Dixon, who in 1897 wrote:

"Perched on a mountainside, her terraces looking down into the gardens of Cerinia, and across the waters of Adana towards the glens and pastures of the Bulghar Dagh, her situation is no less lovely and secluded than herself.  Her name is Peace.  Nestling in woods, high above the port , her Anglo-Norman builders called her Peace - convent of Peace, or Cloiture de la Paix; a beautiful and soothing name, which the intruding Cypriots corrupted into Delapays, and their Venetian masters into Bellapaese.  Here during many ages, gallant Western man and pious Western women found their rest".

Bellapais is quite stunning, particularly at the end of the day when the light softens on the Abbey and you can sit and watch to sunset over the Mediterranean far below.  The recent September weather has also been a welcome change from the intense heat of summer.  Still warm with most days around mid 30's, but mornings and evenings cool.  We're enjoying this season and wanting to make the most of swimming before the weather cools off further in October.

Bellapais

Back to school

First day at 'school' for Anna

The kids all returned to school last week after the long summer.  They're all still at the American Academy, and in general are happy to be back with friends.  Many new faces in their classes this year, which is quite normal in Cyprus given level of transition over summer with UN/diplomatic staff etc.  Of course the standard transition issues for the kids over the past week: missing their sleep in, lunches to be packed, homework to do, Angus not keen to get a haircut (we currently call him the strawman, although Ross thinks Gus' current hairstyle looks more like iconic 1970's surfer George Greenough - google him if you have a chance).  

The other special thing has been Anna's commencement at school.  It's actually preschool, but it's all in the same facility so now she can proudly go off the school with the other three.  Very proud of herself, and loves the routine of schoolbag, lunchbox etc.  

Just quietly I think Sarah is also loving the fact that she has some time to herself for the first time in 10 years!  All quite new, but a lovely change.  I'm sure she will write a blog about this soon.

Angus 'Greenough'

A month of bikes

We've just arrived back in Cyprus after travelling for a month in western Europe.  It was a great break for the family, and we were fortunate to enjoy a somewhat late arrival of summer conditions in Europe.  We flew in and out of Brussels, drove up through Denmark, across Sweden and then down to Germany and back to Belgium, stopping for up to a week at various places on the way around.  It seemed a little strange coming back to Cyprus after such a long break, but the kids are glad to be home, and it's also good to back in some warmer weather.  

Here are a few brief highlights of the holiday:

- A visit to Legoland in Denmark.  Quite a remarkable place.  A fantastic day out as a family, enjoying some innovative rides and amazing lego constructions. 

- Copenhagen, where we stayed with good friends Scott, Pernille and family.  This was the first of our biking experiences, and we enjoyed touring the city on two wheels. Actually, Ross and Sarah enjoyed the bike tour and the kids endured it wondering how far they had to go.  Angus came into his own when we visited the Freetown Christania, which is a large alternative community right in the heart of Copenhagen.  The main reason for his interest.....a large 'skate-ramp house' that has been built right in the heart of the community.  Sarah was in heaven all the way through Denmark; the royal family, Danish culture, the healthy bread, shopping for nice jewellery and the general scenery was awesome.

- Staying in a summer house belonging to Pernille's family at a small coastal town called Rågeleje about an hour north of Copenhagen.  Imagine, a house in the thick woods with a private road leading to a beautiful beach!  We loved swimming in the clear Baltic Sea everyday, catching crabs, eating smoked herring, and generally relaxing together around the old beautifully renovated house.

Daily transport to the beach

- A week on a small Danish island called Bornholm, which lies off the southern coast of Sweden.  Bornholm is a stunning place, covered with forest, beaches, colourful cottages in old villages and a general feeling of serenity everywhere you went.  To our delight, there were bike paths through forests everywhere.  We all had bikes for the week, and spent our days riding, swimming, shopping (to appease Jessie) and visiting some of the lovely old towns on the island.

A windy trip across from Sweden

The forests of Bornholm

Can't get enough of those long twilights

- Berlin, where we once again found ourselves on two wheels taking in the city.  Berlin has always been one of Ross' favourite cities, and it was fascinating to see how the city has changed since 1989.  A brief dose of some remarkable history for the kids also:)

Brandenburg Gate

A remnant of the Berlin Wall

A hot sunny day in Alexsanderplatz in East Berlin

- Belgium, where we spent the final part of the holiday.  For the first week we stayed in Liege with good friends Gene, Boris and their 6 boys. The kids were elated, after 2 long days of driving, to find a backyard to play in and Gene kept her promise to them about the Belgian Chocolate Breakfast Experience.  We were also treated to walks both in nature and the city of Liege, waffles in the centre square, shopping & lunch for the girls  on Jessie's birthday, watersliding for the boys (much to Sam's delight), various lunches and dinners with Gene's family including a Belgian Beer and Cheese night. It was really special to celebrate Jessie's 10th birthday with a big dinner all together - our family and Gene's.

The last week we spent resting in a place called Lac de l'Eau d'Heure, which is a series of large lakes and green rolling hills.  A riding adventure for Angus and Sarah in which a 1.5hr bike ride turned out to take more than 4hrs. Jessie delighted all with her courage at the Nature Park as she donned a harness and flew across the lake on a zip wire.

Gene, Boris and the gang

A visit to Gene's family's butchery.  This is Benoit, Gene's brother

Liege waffle, time to share Sam....

A birthday for Jessie; (surrounded by older men!)

So overall we are very thankful to have had the opportunity for some good rest, and also to have some respite from the August heat in Cyprus.  

Anna's preferred transport attire

Bornholm sunset