Life on the Home Front

Hello, Sarah here. Whilst Ross has travelled far and wide; apart from the odd trip across the Green Line, the other 5 Pipers haven't been anywhere.  A week of listening to Eurovision songs is about as International as we've got but boy do we know our 2011 Eurovision songs!  Not only did the kids have their own family voting scheme worked out, they also stayed up very late to watch the Final and now, several weeks later, are giving us countless performances from their favourite entries.  The pictures below are from a very spirited dance to Romania's song "I can't change the world".

Note that Sam's fascination with frocks continues unabated...

Only 2 and a bit weeks to go now until the summer holidays start here.  I previously thought that a whopping 12 week break with all 4 kids at home should just about drive me around the bend and became a tad fearful of school breaking up.  However,  not long ago I was rescued when the heavenly "Summer School" note emerged out of the kids' school bags.  So for 5 weeks, Jessie & Angus will spend mornings doing a school holiday programme and then in the afternoons hang out at the local pool with Sam, Anna & myself.


Despite the weather heating up rapidly (most days around 30 degrees), the kids are reluctant to go to swimming lessons.  For J & A, it's just hard work swimming laps, and for Sam he gets cold in the water and has a teacher with no kid skills.  (how I miss the Aussie style swim lessons!) This makes 2 afternoons a week a bit of a drag for Mum but I keep meeting interesting people at the pool so I don't mind so much.


The driving here continues to amaze and amuse.  I figure that if I don't laugh and marvel at the Cypriots' cheekiness on the road then I'll probably just ram into one of them on purpose SIMPLY BECAUSE THEY WERE ASKING FOR IT.  I mean, how far can a car poke it's nose onto a main road hoping to be let in?  The answer here from the average Nicosia driver seems to be "as far as I need to to make the oncoming traffic stop so that I can get where I'm going".  The weird thing is that too many people do stop and let them in thus perpetuating the problem and creating a lot of strange traffic scenarios.  In a funny sort of way, however, it all still seems to work and those people who stop to let people in must arrive at work feeling awfully generous.  I've tried it even myself.


The other strange traffic phenomenon that I'm still getting used to is sharing the narrow roads with MASSIVE bulldozers and excavators.  No flashing lights or bulldozer body guards to warn us of their presence.  Quite a wake up call resulting in my becoming a much more alert driver.

All is well here on the home front and we've been pleased this past weekend to have Ross around.  The kids had some friends around to play, we went to a friends' farewell gathering (Angus' best friend is heading back to USA), and then last night headed out for Doner Kebab in the Turkish side of the Old Town. We wanted to take a bit of a 'look around' walk, which the kids are never too keen on, so Ross told them they all had to count 40 cats before we would even think about buying them dinner.  Lucky they spotted a full litter at one point... Today we went to church and then were invited back for lunch with a family who live in a village outside Nicosia.


Monica is with us for 6 days out of 7 and fast becoming a very appreciated element.  She's great with Anna and always hard working and cheerful.  She had a birthday recently which we enjoyed making a big deal of.  It has been a huge adjustment for me, having her here, on many levels.  More about that some other blog.  For now.....Kala Nichta (good night).  No, I shouldn't have written that - it makes the Greek language look easy but it's NOT!  Twice a week I go to mind gym (alias Greek classes) and then have nobody to practice on except intolerant shop keepers.  I'm getting too old for this....

A week in the desert

I've (Ross) just returned from a week in the Jordanian desert, where I participated in a security training course run in co-operation with World Vision, the UN and the Jordanian military.  Security has become a significant issue for aid workers and NGOs, particularly as past approaches of 'community acceptance' as the primary strategy for security protection have been increasingly challenged in places like Afghanistan and Iraq.  Carrying a UN flag is no longer a signal of neutrality and impartiality, and in fact can actually have the opposite effect in some contexts.  This is, unfortunately, evidenced by the increasing number of attacks on the UN and also NGOs in various parts of the world.   

We spent a week in the desert being shot at, kidnapped and detained, harassed at hostile checkpoints and generally challenged in terms of how organisations can effectively manage their risks in complex operating environments.  We had about 30 participants on the course, drawn from countries all across the region.  There were some interesting cross-learning opportunities between participants and instructors, especially given some of the places where participants were from, and the daily risks and security issues they face eg. Jerusalem, West Bank and Gaza, Lebanon, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Russian Federation, Iran, Bosnia and Georgia. All in all some remarkable people, and I feel privileged to be able to work with them. 

Downtown Amman

It was also good to spend some time in Amman, where World Vision has an office and program working primarily with Iraqi refugees.  Jordan is a relatively stable country in the Middle East, largely due to strong support from the broad population for the King Abdullah and royal family.  It's a country with enormous economic disparity though, and it's interesting to see how the current Middle East 'spring' is impacting even Jordan.  Whilst I was there, two very large protests occurred after Friday prayers in Amman, and these are a now a regular occurrence in various parts of the country.  World Vision and other NGOs in Jordan are preparing for a possible influx of refugees from Syria, where the political and social situation is highly volatile and may further deteriorate.  Syrian refugees are already arriving in the northern parts of Lebanon. World Vision has a number of long-term development projects in north Lebanon and has mobilised an emergency response to support the influx of refugees.


Managing the balance between effective long term development with a capability to respond quickly to emerging crises is one of the key challenges for World Vision and other NGOs working in this part of the world.  Lots of internal organisational issues as well as external challenges to manage in order to get this dynamic right.

Jogging with a passport

One of the quirks of Nicosia is the option to carry a passport when you go for a run.    Our house is close to one of the border crossings between the north and the south. This morning I went for a run that involved crossing the border near our house and then running along the 'green line' or UN buffer zone and into the old city in North Nicosia, before crossing back into the south at a different border point.  Somewhat surreal to jog up to a border checkpoint, have my passport and visa stamped, and then proceed across no man's land to the other side.  When you cross into the north, there is nothing subtle about the change of national focus.  Soon after the crossing you pass under an enormous sign stating 'happy and proud to be a Turk'.  

North Nicosia provides an interesting contrast to the southern part of the city where we live.  Many aspects of the architecture are similar.  For example the beautiful old framed doorways, stately limestone block houses and cobbled streets and squares in the old town.  There are a number of contrasts also, with a strong Turkish character to the food, cafes, shops and of course the mosques.   Houses along the green line remain derelict, largely unchanged from when the war finished in 1974.  The buffer zone has a eerie atmosphere, and it's hard to not think about the lives of the many families who used to live there.  

We've been reading a lot over the last few months about the history of the island, and the conflict over the past 50 years.  Of course each side has their own story and aportions blame to the other but the core fact is that the partition of the island has had tragic consequences for many people on both sides of the divide.  The conflict is long dormant, but the newspapers on both sides trade a war of words on a daily basis.  The current UN Special Envoy to Cyprus is none other than Alexander Downer(!).  His mandate is to work with leaders on both sides of the island and seek to broker some sort of resolution, with a push towards possible reunification.  It seems that this goal is a long way off.  Just quietly, I'm not sure that Downer, A. is the best man for the job to bring these two sides together.......!

You can see the emotion in signs at various war memorials

It's been interesting for us to meet more families from both sides of the island.  A number of students at the kid's school come are Turkish Cypriot, and they cross the border each day to go to school.  Certainly an eye opener for our kids to have school friends from such diverse backgrounds.  


Things are starting to warm up here, which means many more tourists around.  I flew in last weekend, and was amazed at the number of Russian and English charter flights on the tarmac at Larnaca.  We're feeling more settled now, although still working at building some community.  Sarah and I are taking a few Greek lessons each week, and we're also trying to get some more balance and normality into our lives by getting out for dinner together on a regular basis.  Small things about life here continue to surprise.  Even a trip to the local butchers last week.  When we asked for some lamb chops, the butcher went out the back and returned with a full carcass, asking which particular cuts we wanted.  Nothing like getting close to the source!


A few recent pics of the family are included below.

Anna's 2nd birthday

Eurovision awaits......

It's been a while since we posted a blog, but it would be remiss if we let the occasion of this weekend's Eurovision song contest pass without a mention.   Ross was travelling last week, but returned yesterday in plenty of time to prepare for the big event.  Suffice to say, Eurovision is a high point during the year, what with the dubious quality of many of the songs, the hype of the event and of course the intrigue and high drama of political alliances around the voting.  Hosted in Dusseldorf this year, the event promises to bring a certain German sophistication and 'edge' to the mix, along with the general high quality production values that the Germans are so well known for.  


In terms of winners tips, we both feel a certain loyalty to the local Cypriot entry San Aggelos S'Agapisa by Christos Mylordos, but alas think it may struggle against some heavy hitting acts coming from the Caucasus and the Balkans.  The smart money at the moment is on France or Russia, although I'm a particular fan of Dino Merlin's entry for Bosnia. The Caucasus states of Georgia, Azerbaijan or Armenia are long overdue for a victory, and Britain will of course be hoping to avoid their all too often nul points status.   For us, the most noteworthy part of the evening will be to see whether Greece and Turkey swap any points, a sure sign of a thawing in their relationship and a possible indicator of progress in Turkey's EU assessionist aspirations.   Any you thought the contest was about the music???


Hope you can carve out a spare 8 hours (!) or so to watch the event on TV this weekend, and be sure to toast the Cypriots when they take to the stage.  


ps. a clip of the Cypriot entry is included below: 

A Turkish Cypriot Easter

Whilst it would have been interesting to stay around Nicosia for Easter, we felt the need to get away and take full advantage of the 4 day break. 


Before we did, however, the kids and I enjoyed a bit of baking together and took some cake in to Ross' office for an Easter afternoon tea.  The staff he works with are so friendly and have been very welcoming of our family.


On Good Friday we headed about an hour north across the border to stay at a beach resort just north of Famagusta on the east coast of the island.  As you may have read from a previous blog, the Turkish part of Cyprus is fascinating; like being in a totally different country.  Turkish is the main language in the north, with much fewer people speaking English, the Turkish Lira is the currency, and the houses are not only tall and half Spanish looking but the many colours of your average Ice Creamery.


Anyway, I digress....and this is dangerous so late at night.  I'm going to take a short cut for this blog and tell our weekend story through a series of photos.  Please enjoy...

Welcome to North Cyprus...the Turkish side (I think?!!)

Breakfast by the Mediterrenean

Kids explore the ruins of ancient Salamis, dating back to 800BC.

These pylons held up the gymnasium.

Mosaics decorating the Hot Baths

The amphitheatre which could hold up to 10,000 people (note Anna enjoying the
scenery from her pram in a horizontal position, and Angus throwing his hat!!)

The kids got a bit bored of the ancient ruins...but the giant
dandelions held their attention.

A new Macdonalds franchise in Northern Cyprus?

A majestic old church in Famagusta.  The gothic architecture somewhat changed by the minaret on top; making it a mosque.  Whilst Sarah was being convertedby the Muslim man at the front desk, Sam was on his knees imitating the men praying and putting the old Muslim women into hysterics.

The 5th Century church of Agios Filon, where we enjoyed a picnic lunch.
Situated on the Karpas Peninsula.

Restaurant on the Karpas Peninsula

Beautiful bays on the Karpas Peninsula

Easter Sunday.  On the north-eastern tip of Cyprus

Golden Beach, on the Karpas Peninsula

We were amazed at how hospitable people
were to our kids.  These were the restaurant
staff at our accommodation.

The kids fell in love with Harry and Nilla.

The north-eastern tip of Cyprus.

Kalo Pasxa!

Kalo Pasxa, or Happy Easter! It's been interesting this week to observe and be a part of some of the traditions leading up to easter in Cyprus. Easter is a significant holiday here, and a range of faith traditions and rituals are practiced across the island.  Large eggs have appeared everywhere in Nicosia, all with Easter messages written on them.  


The church bells have been ringing throughout the week, and tomorrow (known as 'big Friday') is marked by a range of activities.  All the icons in the churches are covered with black shrouds, and then on Saturday these are removed as the congregations in the various churches shake their seats and pews to symbolise an earthquake.  Saturday evening is the largest gathering in the churches.  At midnight the lights all go off, and the priest lights one candle at the front of the church and then this is used to subsequently light other candles across the entire congregation, symbolising the coming of new life and light.  You can imagine the visual effect of this in a large cathedral that might be holding a few thousand people.  Then large bonfires are lit all across the city.  Sunday is the feasting day, where extended families gather for large meals together.  The main course is generally lamb cooked on a spit, so all in all not a good day to be a sheep on Cyprus!

Happy Easter to all.  Χριστός Ανέστη!  (Christos anesti, or Christ is risen)!

The Joys of an International Community

As you know, the children are attending the American Academy which is in the centre of Nicosia.  Sam, aged 4, is in pre-school, Angus, aged 7, is in Yr 2 and Jessie, aged 8, is in Yr 3.  They each have small classes, with students and teachers from all over the world and  specialist lessons like French, Greek, P.E. and music. It's a small school, with the Junior School being single stream (ie: 20-25 kids in each yr group).  The Christian orientation of the assemblies has the kids coming home singing all sorts of church songs and also seems to provide a very open and friendly community feel around the school.  Already, I hear of them mixing with students from other year groups, with bigger kids never afraid to ruffle Sam's hair.  The other day Angus came home with some new found basketball skills that a Yr 10 boy showed him and both times that I have been to the canteen after school, a little Yr 1 girl from Guatamala has come and talked to us; obviously looking up to Jessie. Every time I visit the school, I am amazed at how quickly they have settled in and are fully enjoying their new learning environment.


Yesterday was International Day which is the school's largest annual event.  Held on a late Saturday afternoon, the first half of the programme is a whole school performance (mostly dances by different year groups) and the second half is an International food feast in which parents set up stalls with food from their country and money is raised for the school. I was in foodie heaven!  Unfortunately, Ross is away in Bangkok doing some training, so he missed the event.  Monica, however, seemed to really enjoy it and was very proud to show me her favourite foods at the Sri Lankan table.

A picture for Ross: "missing you Dad!".
Outside Sam's pre-school on International Day.

The concert that the kids performed in was great.  Sam must have practised his dance to "Walking on Sunshine" about 50 times at home this week and when it came time to be up on stage he didn't disappoint.  Watching the teacher up front and getting all the moves 'just right', he made me smile so much.  

Sam is in the middle, front row.  Next time, I'll use my zoom!

A school fair is never complete without a jumping castle.

Jessie was in a combined Yr 3 and Yr 8 performance in which they all danced like cowboys to Footloose.  Angus danced to an African song which I think was the World Cup theme song (?).  There were also some traditional Cypriot dances, some Tango, Salsa, the Charleston etc..  Quite an international expo.

Angus can be spotted doing the "Waca Waca" dance.
quote: "It's embarassing Mum"

Jessie's Footloose crew

Other news about recent happenings:

- Angus got himself on the local news yesterday when we turned up to the launch of Cyprus' first skate park.  It's not quite what he was used to however any piece of flat concrete with a grinding pole and a jump ramp is like heaven on earth to Angus at present.  Hopefully this will be the beginning of his 'skate community' and it might entice him with his Greek!  It's certainly in a great location for me; a 5 min drive from home, behind the local swimming pool and right next to a play park with swings. Some things are just meant to be....

- The launch yesterday had Sam entertained with some free face painting whilst I wished I could understand the opening speeches for the skate ramp.  I must get on with learning Greek; where is all my time going? The kids know heaps more than me and I hate being in situations in which I have no idea what people are talking about. One day soon...

- Today, Sunday, we invited Constance back to visit us and play with the kids.  You may remember, from a past blog, that when I was interviewing for some 'home help', I came across this incredible Nigerian lady who seemed to click with my children instantly.  If it was not for her study commitments, I would have hired her full-time for sure.  However, I figure that Monica is only human and may get sick, so it's good to have a back up plan; especially if Ross is away.  Whilst the kids were having dinner and Constance was with us, I encouraged them to ask questions about where she is from, her family life etc... When she told us that she is the 5th child of 9 children, Jessie remarked "gee, you must have a big dinner table to fit eleven people" to which Constance broke up laughing and replied "we don't eat off a table, we sit on the ground".  A similar conversation ensued when Jessie enquired as to why Constance didn't have a car.  It's all good learning for an 8yr old!

- I am currently enjoying teaching Monica to cook some of the foods we eat.  She is an excellent cook when it comes to curry but the term 'baking' means nothing to her, simply because her family never had an oven as they are too expensive.  I've taught her to bake slices and cakes (including Lamingtons for the International Day) and the look on her face when we all tasted her first chocolate cake and told her it was "very good" was one of pure delight.  Next up: Hazelnut Gateaux! :)