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| An old photo of Beirut |
I wish I could take credit for the title of this blog, but alas it’s a quote that I love from Thomas Friedman’s book ‘From Beirut to Jerusalem’. The quote describes the general attitude and approach of the US Marines when they were engaged in the Lebanon civil war during the 1980’s and early 90’s. At its height, the Lebanese civil war was about as complex and dark as a conflict can get, with more than 18 different factions all fighting each other, and huge loss of life on all sides. The US Marines ended up leaving Lebanon with their tails well and truly between their legs, after paying dearly for their failure to understand the complexities of the conflict. Likewise the many other armies who have arrived in Lebanon have all suffered similar indignity: the PLO, Israelis, Syrians, Saudis, French, Italians and even a small British contingent have all left Beirut hopeless, humiliated or ashamed.
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| Downtown Beirut during the civil war |
Lebanon is a country of remarkable contrast and complexity, where high street fashion and the latest European cars can co-exist with Palestinian refugee camps and small communities living in what are essentially third world conditions. 'Camps' is not the best way to describe the living situation for Palestinian refugees. Rather the Palestinian communities are more like enclosed suburbs or ghettos, which were built by Palestinian refugees who were displaced when the modern state of Israel was declared in 1948. Consequently, many of the current residents are third or fourth generation refugees. Life in the Palestinian camps is extremely challenging, but poverty also has a very different face in Lebanon, with issues such as human and child trafficking, lack of rural and market infrastructure, and economic development being key challenges in many other parts of the country. There is also the ever present reality of future conflict, which appears to be an increasing likelihood with current internal and external dynamics.
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| Some pictures inside one of the many Palestinian refugee 'camps' in Lebanon |
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| Note the improvised electrical wiring and water pipes |
I've spent the last four days in Lebanon, and I've been reminded of the ironies and contrasts of Beirut, where people hold with open hands the concept of a stable and secure future, and live very much for the day. There is a certain 'lightness of spirit', passion and spontaneous overwhelming hospitality that many Western cultures could only ever to aspire to. But this also has a dark side, and when a community fractures or divides, the results can be catastrophic, as was the case in Lebanon throughout the civil war and more recently. Many different groups, factions and militias remain active throughout the country, and there is a disturbing sense of a fuse waiting to be lit, should some of the current political dynamics continue to play out.
I have to say that I love Beirut though. In fact it's one of my favourite cities. The so-called 'Paris of the Middle East' is framed by the magnificent Chouf Mountains and Mt Lebanon to the east. Mediterranean beaches around the city right through to peaks higher than 3000m; a stunning physical setting. The general spirit of the people is something to behold, and both Sarah and I have never experienced hospitality and openness like Lebanon anywhere else in the world. The general flow and chaotic nature of the driving speaks volumes about the general attitude and approach to life in Lebanon. On the roads, things flow and flex in a way that would never work in a western city, but somehow it works. Traffic lights are for decoration only, no roads have lanes marked, one-way streets become two-way, depending on where you need to go, and the way traffic flows through large roundabouts is something that defies any reason or logic. On Thursday I saw a young lady having a driving lesson and had to laugh. If she can learn to drive in Beirut, there is no other city on earth that would conquer her!
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| Looking down on Northern Israel, with the Golan Heights in the background |
On Friday we drove down to the south of Lebanon. This is the so-called liberated zone that was left after the Israeli army withdrew in 2000. The general economic and social situation in the south is difficult. World Vision has three area development projects in the south, with a key focus on education, economic development and agriculture. It was fascinating to visit some of the projects, learn more about the work and spend some time close to one of the most contentious borders in the world today between Lebanon and Israel. The geography of the area is also spectacular. High mountains in the region overlook the northern half of Israel, and the area is therefore highly strategic. I can see why the Golan Heights has been fought over for so many years.
I flew back from Beirut to Larnaca last night. It's only a 20 minute flight, hence the reason why many Lebanese relocated to Cyprus during the years of the civil war. Clearing customs in Beirut, I was reminded once again of the 'Levantine spirit' when I queued to get my passport stamped. I was struck by the security officers walking around in high heels, and the strong smell of perfume in the air. Never before has my passport been stamped by someone who looked like they were on their way to a beauty pageant straight after work.......... such is life in Lebanon.
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| Maronite church and Hariri mosque in downtown Beirut |
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