The Baptism of the Cross

Last Friday (6th Jan) was a public holiday to mark ἐπιφάνεια (the Epiphany). This is an Orthodox tradition marking the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan River and also his physical manifestation on earth.  It also marks the end of a season where there is a traditional ban on sailing, upheld because of a belief that the winter seas are beset by 'mischief-prone goblins' who torment sailors and fishermen through the festive season.  The main tradition around the Epiphany involves a ceremony called the blessing of the waters, which starts with a long church service followed by a procession to the nearest body of water.  The priest then blesses the waters, by throwing a cross into the water.  Where swimming is possible, a number of young men then dive into the water to try to recover the cross.  The person who gets the cross and returns it to the priest then receives a special blessing for him and his family.  

The tradition takes place in most Greek villages and communities in Cyprus on the 6th January.  We travelled down to Aiga Napa to watch the proceedings.  Aiga Napa is normally a heaving tourist town in summer, but is very sleepy mid winter.  It was fascinating to see a large crowd of locals and tourists gather for the ceremony.  Cypriot locals, easily recognisable by the suits, black leather and heels gathered alongside sun worshiping Brits and Germans who remain in Aiga Napa for their fix of vitamin D while the rest of Europe freezes.  


After some waiting around the procession arrived and the ceremony began.  We had imagined that the priest might give the cross a good throw out into the harbour and make it more of a challenge for the young men who had gathered to claim the prize. Alas it was more of a half hearted toss, but the vigour of the young men who dived in immediately following made up for any lack of a decent throwing arm on the part of the priest.  Perhaps this is occupational health and safety Cyprus-style??   In the end the cross was thrown three times, a different victor recovering the cross each time.  

Ready to go......

They're off......

And victory, as the cross is recovered

We really enjoyed the chance to view this tradition, as it's not always easy to be a part of the many Orthodox traditions and feasts on the island.  Following the ceremony we had a quick milkshake followed by a vigorous bounce on a jumping castle for Anna.......resulting in the subsequent loss of the said milkshake all over the Aiga Napa sidewalk.  Child number four, you'd think we would have learned by now! 


Happy new year.

The icon of Jesus' baptism is carried to the water