What lies beneath

A modern city with ancient street sweepers

I have just returned from Baku in Azerbaijan via Moscow today.  It was good to be back in the Caucasus, and I enjoyed the opportunity to engage with our team in Azerbaijan.  It was fascinating to visit Baku so soon after the Eurovision song contest.  When I was in Baku late last year, preparations were in full swing and now the city is basking in the aftermath.  It's quite a remarkable transformation for the city. Inspiring on one level, but somewhat disturbing on another when you consider the poverty levels that affect the rest of the country.  The government has literally invested billions into the city.  Over 1000 London taxis were purchased for Baku prior to Eurovision, and grand architecture that would look more at home in Paris than the Caucasus has been built across the city.  Even the road from the airport into the city is walled on both sides by ornate architectural works for the road's 20km length.  It's only when you hear that behind the walls lie sprawling and largely impoverished communities that you are reminded there is a very different side to this country.   This is immediately evident beyond Baku, and poverty levels throughout the rest of the country are very high.  In particular among the large numbers of displaced persons from the frozen conflict with neighbouring Armenia that reside in Azerbaijan.

During the evenings thousands of people come out to walk along the large seafront boulevard in Baku, and the old city is alive with crowds, carpet sellers and markets.  The seafront boulevard and old city are fine models of architectural design and innovative use of public space.  Azeri families dress up and walk together in the evenings on the boulevard, sometimes stopping to have a photo taken together (a ritual that goes back for many years).  However as I walk with the crowds and look at the faces, for me there are some profound societal pieces missing, and something feels 'wrong'.  No amount of grand architecture, fine public space, impressive light shows or modern technology can compensate for the lack of a vibrant and free civil society. Government reforms have made some progress in this area, but there is still a long way to go. It reminds me in some ways of Dubai, which I once heard described as an 'artificial version of Las Vegas'. 

So I leave somewhat perplexed.  Impressed by the architectural wonders of Baku, but restless at the facade this represents of a country seeking to define itself as a modern and progressive state.  

The modern and the old

The Eurovision song contest venue