Istanbul (not Constantinople)

Jenny and Sarah in front of Galata Tower

Some people may recall the song with the same title as this blog, covered by the band 'They Might be Giants' a few years back. Ah yes, the perennial question of historical ownership and identity of cities in this part of the world.  Istanbul has a long and fascinating history as a contested strategic capital for both the Ottoman and Byzantine empires, and the association for both Turks and Greeks to Istanbul remains strong to this day. So much so that the name 'Constantinople' is still used today by many members of the Eastern Orthodox church and Greeks in general.  

Istanbul is a remarkable city, both in terms of its geographic location and also the history contained within it.  Located right on the Bosphorus, which is a narrow stretch of water linking the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea, the city has always played a significant political, social and cultural role in the region.  The Bosphorus effectively divides the European continent from the Asian continent, and is one of the world's busiest waterways. Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, and currently has a population of more than 13 million people.   

Trying to cut the deal......actually, I wouldn't mind
working in a haberdashery

We travelled to Istanbul last weekend, where we were able to meet up with Ross' brother Bruce and his wife Jenny, who were also spending a few days there.  It was lovely to meet up with them, and despite the freezing weather (including some snow), we spent our time visiting various sites and attempting to negotiate some hard bargains in the many markets and shops.  Sarah almost had a canny Turkish shopkeeper in tears at one point as she continued to push an asking price down, and Jenny also showed suitable aplomb as she worked the markets to try and buy an elaborate kaftan (perhaps for Bruce to wear for special occasions at home??).  All great fun, and it was remarkable to watch the Turkish sellers at work.  We did succeed in buying a few items, but you're never quite sure whether that '100% guaranteed one-off original item', is not part of a much broader stock that will immediately be replaced after you've left the shop!

Foyer at the Pera Palace

We enjoyed staying at the Pera Palace, which is one of Istanbul's oldest hotels.  The hotel has hosted many famous guests over the last 100 years including Kemal Attaturk (the 'father' of modern Turkey), Agatha Christie and Ernest Hemmingway to name a few.   The hotel also used to accommodate guests travelling on the Orient Express, hence the link with Agatha Christie.  The hotel has been beautifully restored, and still boasts Istanbul's first elevator.  

From Istanbul Bruce and Jenny travelled on to Kosovo, and we returned to Cyprus, which is less than an hour's flying time away. It was great to have some time away for us together, and also to have spent some time with Bruce and Jenny.  Our kids were well cared for in our absence, so much so that upon our return Anna asked us when we were going away again!  Think it may have been all that chocolate that Menaka fed her??

The Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet

Bruce in action at the local markets

The Bosphorus

Topkapi Palace

The Cistern, beneath the old city

Istanbul's first elevator at the Pera
Palace Hotel.  It is still operating.

Cyprus on the financial brink

There have been some unprecedented events in Cyprus over the past week, with a financial crisis and Government deadlock over negotiation of terms for an economic bailout from Europe.  Banks have been closed for more than a week, and there is still no clarity as to when they may open again.  The catalyst for this weeks' events was an ultimatum from the European Central Bank regarding terms for a bailout package, which included the imposition of a one-off levy of between 6% to 10% on every bank account in the country. This proposed action provoked outrage and anger across the population, and was ultimately voted down by the Government.  With no bailout package negotiated, two of the largest banks in the country may collapse next week, with a resultant domino effect on other banks and the general economy in Cyprus, bankruptcy and eventual exit from the Eurozone.  There is also a related risk of contagion to other struggling European economies such as Greece, Italy and Spain.     

During the week the Cyprus Government has desperately sought alternative finance solutions to meet the bailout package requirements.  The competing influence and economic interests of both Russia and Europe have been in play, but there is still no deal.   This is a very challenging time for Cypriots, and people have spent the week queuing at cash machines as they try to recover as much money as they can from their accounts.  A full blown run on the banks is a real possibility when the banks eventually reopen.  There is already talk of fuel shortages and a range of other social impacts, and no-one is able to predict what would actually happen should Cyprus fall out of the Euro and revert back to its former currency the Cyprus Pound.  Protests are growing, and some shops have already started to move to only accepting cash.

We are fortunate in that we personally don't keep significant funds in Cyprus.  However a key challenge is to ensure there is sufficient cashflow to pay salaries and maintain operations through this time of uncertainty.

It's uncharted territory for Cyprus and Europe over the coming week.  Unfortunately there is no 'best case' scenario, only bad options for Cyprus, so people are hoping for a 'least worst' scenario to play out.

A Cacophony of NOISE

We don't always dress like this to go out...

For some reason, I have become acutely aware of the incredible NOISE that our family makes.  If it's not Jessie playing some kind of wind instrument, then it's Angus singing at the top of his voice from his bedroom (whilst doing homework) or it's Sam talking non-stop or Anna saying "I"m hungry" about twenty times over.  And then, every now and again, we have Monica entering from stage left to ask "what time for the dinner Sarah?".  If it's on a w'end, and Ross and I have something we want to say to each other.......FORGET IT!  Too hard; too noisy. 

So that's why mornings like this morning are great.  Jessie, Angus and Sam had already taken the bus to school before 7am, leaving us to have a quiet breakfast, get ready for the day and play a bit with Anna.  We then got on our bikes, rode to the pre-school, dropped her off and then cruised down into the old town for a morning ride together.  The streets there are still whisper quiet at 8.30am so it was a very pleasant ride on a beautiful spring morning.  Ross then rode off to work and I got to stop off in the park for a bit of quiet before heading home.  That's been one of the gifts of this time for me in Cyprus since the kids are now at school: rather than constantly moving from one thing to the next, simply taking time to 'be'.  To be quiet, to be still, to reflect and be thankful.

A few updates on the children at present:

Anna started pre-school 5 mornings a week last September and she is very happy in her routine there.  She's made some friends and loves to tell us over dinner who sat in the time out chair that day and what she played with "Lukas!".  She's crazy about balls and will kick or throw with anybody who'll stand there long enough.  She has a great time with Sam and Monica playing "babies" and loves to wind Jessie up by annoying our lovely dog Zoe.  Her eating and fussiness and refusal to try new foods is driving us all crazy and seems to require some genius to crack the code of her stubbornness.  Fortunately there is a positive 'food time' for her and that is helping Monica to bake and then licking the bowl.  She's looking forward to her 4th birthday next month and can't wait to ride a bike with training wheels and get some shoes which lace up and have her own watch and get the guitar she never got at Christmas and the list goes on......  

Sam is really growing up, now a big 6yr old.  He's speaking his mind (loudly), sticking up for himself against his siblings (usually by voice) and has even passed through a few fearful, potentially phobic stages that were plaguing him earlier.  He's reading well, enjoying school and has a number of friends, many of them girls (but not all).  Every friday afternoon, he attends a music, dance, drama class after school which he loves. Most of the time, when he's not playing a specific game at home, he is singing or dancing 'something'.  His favourite pastime seems to be to keep Mummy busy: talking, asking for things, getting hungry and the old "Mum, watch this!" Today he had a ball flying his kite in the forest for 'Green Monday', where Cypriots all traditionally fly kites and have picnics at the start of Orthodox Lent.  

Gus is now 9yrs old and loving getting older.  He plays soccer a few times a week and enjoys a guitar lesson every Wednesday with his new 'hip' teacher Dex, who is from the Ukraine.  School is all about having fun and the ball games to be had at break times.  His friends, Alexander, Rashid and Gaspar are a great little group.  He does pretty well at school and even better when the teacher can read his sloppy hand writing.  Recently, since swapping guitar teachers, he's had a bit more free time and we've enjoyed more bike riding together and chess games in the afternoon.  In a few weeks he'll take his first communion.  One more opportunity to snack at church : ))

Jessie is coming up for 11yrs in August and sometimes we think she's going on 14 a little prematurely.  I'm sure this is a fairly common experience; they simply can't wait to grow up.  We are both enjoying her quick wit and sense of humour that comes with getting older but perhaps her desire to stay up later and keep a messy room are a less enjoyable trade off.  She's currently in another 'instrument dilemma' in which she's trying out the oboe for a month in order to decide which other instrument she wants to take up.  It's a choice out of all the other ones she's tried and enjoyed: violin, piano, clarinet and now oboe.  It's great that she's incredibly enthusiastic about music but sometimes we are a little overwhelmed.  I think it's those musical Piper genes... Fortunately she's set on keeping flute as her no.1 instrument so we have some consistency there.  Jessie is also into the music, dance, drama class and is looking forward to performing in a small Wizard of Oz production coming up at the end of term.  Gymnastics keeps her fit and flexible but she's up for another change soon (perhaps she thinks she has to keep Mum busy?).  Nevertheless, I'm feeling very fortunate to be able to provide her with lots of opportunities to try things whilst she's motivated for this.  Over the weekend she stayed with her good friend Julia whilst Mum & Dad went to Istanbul.  I am sure she missed our dog Zoe more than us!

So despite the noise, it's a pretty good life over here at present.

The forests on Cyprus are still very green after a wet winter,
but will brown up soon with the arrival of warmer weather

Pity the Nation*

Makeshift tents adjacent to the Syrian border

Last week I was in Lebanon working with our teams who are planning the scale-up of WV's current response to the Syria crisis.   It is hard to understate the scale of human tragedy resulting from the ongoing civil war in Syria.  It is estimated that more than 1 million refugees have now crossed into Lebanon, Jordan, Iraq and Turkey with another 2.5 million people displaced internally within Syria.  Conditions within Syria continue to deteriorate as the civil war continues between the Assad Government regime, the free Syrian army and various other armed opposition groups.  During the week we visited the northern and eastern border regions of Lebanon and Syria and met with a number of refugee families and communities. I heard many tragic stories of suffering and of desperate conditions within Syria, and it was confronting to meet with families who have children just like mine, but who have lost absolutely everything.  Many of the children we met were cold, hungry and traumatised.  Emergency aid is being delivered by World Vision, the UN and a range of other agencies, but the growing needs far outstrip the available resources, both outside and within Syria itself.

An earlier map.  Since this map was produced, refugee
numbers have risen significantly as the conflict has
worsened

There are no official 'camps' in Lebanon, as this is highly controversial from a political standpoint, so instead the Syrian refugee families have been accommodated in Lebanese villages and towns and are often living in very basic conditions with host families or vacant communal spaces.  Towns and cities close to the border regions are at full capacity, and many refugees are now venturing further to Beirut and other locations across the country. In addition to pressing humanitarian needs, the influx of large numbers of Syrian refugees also brings with it significant political and security issues.  The arrival of hundreds of thousands of Palestinian refugees in Lebanon during 1948 and also 1967, and the subsequent conflict within Lebanon is not too distant a memory.  These Palestinian groups are still accommodated in camps within Lebanon to this day.  

On the Jordanian border the picture looks somewhat different but no less challenging, with many refugees being settled in large camps in addition to being hosted by local Jordanian communities. 

Access and 'humanitarian space' for international organisations to operate in Syria is very limited at present, but a number of local Syrian organisations and churches continue to be very active in providing support on the ground.  Last week we met with a number of these groups, and heard some remarkable stories of how communities are mobilising and organising themselves to provide makeshift medical, food, shelter, schooling and other emergency services.  This local activism and community mobilisation has been evidenced in many places across Syria.  One group told us how various Syrian churches are providing meals and other life saving support to thousands of muslim families currently accommodated in mosques and other emergency shelters.  The group's response when asked how best to help in Syria? "Help the Christians to help the Muslims".  

The fabric of Syrian society has collapsed, but it is a powerful and humbling thing to see groups across the spectrum of faith supporting each other in this way.  

WV 'Child Friendly Spaces' provide support for
refugee children affected by the conflict.

There are a range of different scenarios that could play out in Syria and its neighbouring countries over the next 6-12 months, most of them not pretty. The most likely outcome in Syria is that the human catastrophe will continue until the Assad regime collapses, after which the country may well be divided along ethnic and religious lines.  Syria's disintegration could also further 'Balkanise' the Middle East, which may unleash more violence. Neighbouring countries like Lebanon and Jordan may find it increasingly difficult to remain aloof from a disintegrating Syria, and the influx of such large numbers of Syrian refugees has the potential to upset an already precarious power balance and spark further conflict.  

When we met last week with the Syriac Orthodox Archbishop in Beirut, his final words were:

"No one knows the future in Syria, but God know's the future.  So we have to trust in Him.  May God have mercy on us".

*with apologies to Robert Fisk, author of 'Pity the Nation, Lebanon at War'

Emergency accommodation for refugees in
the Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Emergency shelter for a family of six