Monday, March 25, 2013

Istanbul (not Constantinople)

Jenny and Sarah in front of Galata Tower
Some people may recall the song with the same title as this blog, covered by the band 'They Might be Giants' a few years back. Ah yes, the perennial question of historical ownership and identity of cities in this part of the world.  Istanbul has a long and fascinating history as a contested strategic capital for both the Ottoman and Byzantine empires, and the association for both Turks and Greeks to Istanbul remains strong to this day. So much so that the name 'Constantinople' is still used today by many members of the Eastern Orthodox church and Greeks in general.  

Istanbul is a remarkable city, both in terms of its geographic location and also the history contained within it.  Located right on the Bosphorus, which is a narrow stretch of water linking the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea, the city has always played a significant political, social and cultural role in the region.  The Bosphorus effectively divides the European continent from the Asian continent, and is one of the world's busiest waterways. Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, and currently has a population of more than 13 million people.   


Trying to cut the deal......actually, I wouldn't mind
working in a haberdashery
We travelled to Istanbul last weekend, where we were able to meet up with Ross' brother Bruce and his wife Jenny, who were also spending a few days there.  It was lovely to meet up with them, and despite the freezing weather (including some snow), we spent our time visiting various sites and attempting to negotiate some hard bargains in the many markets and shops.  Sarah almost had a canny Turkish shopkeeper in tears at one point as she continued to push an asking price down, and Jenny also showed suitable aplomb as she worked the markets to try and buy an elaborate kaftan (perhaps for Bruce to wear for special occasions at home??).  All great fun, and it was remarkable to watch the Turkish sellers at work.  We did succeed in buying a few items, but you're never quite sure whether that '100% guaranteed one-off original item', is not part of a much broader stock that will immediately be replaced after you've left the shop!


Foyer at the Pera Palace
We enjoyed staying at the Pera Palace, which is one of Istanbul's oldest hotels.  The hotel has hosted many famous guests over the last 100 years including Kemal Attaturk (the 'father' of modern Turkey), Agatha Christie and Ernest Hemmingway to name a few.   The hotel also used to accommodate guests travelling on the Orient Express, hence the link with Agatha Christie.  The hotel has been beautifully restored, and still boasts Istanbul's first elevator.  

From Istanbul Bruce and Jenny travelled on to Kosovo, and we returned to Cyprus, which is less than an hour's flying time away. It was great to have some time away for us together, and also to have spent some time with Bruce and Jenny.  Our kids were well cared for in our absence, so much so that upon our return Anna asked us when we were going away again!  Think it may have been all that chocolate that Menaka fed her??


The Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet
Bruce in action at the local markets

The Bosphorus

Topkapi Palace
The Cistern, beneath the old city

Istanbul's first elevator at the Pera
Palace Hotel.  It is still operating.

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