British bases in Cyprus

Last week at a dinner with friends, it was interesting to meet a number of families serving with the British army.  In several cases, we met only the spouse and children, as the other partner is currently serving in Afghanistan.  This is one of the more unexpected elements of people you meet in Cyprus.  The British army and airforce currently have more than 3000 troops based in Cyprus, and the island continues to play an important role as a staging post for British forces activities in Afghanistan.  All troops who are either deploying to, or returning from Afghanistan spend time in Cyprus, and a number of families with one member on active duty in Afghanistan are based here.  

The relationship between Cyprus and Britain is complex, and in some ways reflects the broader history of Cyprus as a pawn in a broader strategic chess game between various major powers.  The island has essentially been occupied or under the influence of different foreign powers for the last few thousand years, and the British colonial influence from WWI through to the 1950's is but one chapter in long line of 'occupations' by various forces going back well before the Crusades.  This fact alone makes the history of the island so compelling, and the influences (cultural, architectural, political and social) of different periods of occupation remain highly visible to this day.  

When Cyprus was finally granted independence in 1960, the British extracted their pound of flesh, and signed an agreement over what became known as the Sovereign Base Areas.  These were basically two areas on the island that were to be retained by Britain for military purposes.  To this day both these areas continue be fully utilised by British forces, and provide them with an important strategic staging point in the Mediterranean.  In fact when you drive into either of these areas, you are in effect entering sovereign British territory that no longer comes under the legal jurisdiction of Cyprus.  So if you are booked speeding for example, it's like a British traffic fine, payable to her Majesty's Government.....

British troops in Cyprus en-route to Afghanistan 

It's not only the British who have strategic military interests in Cyprus.  The US also maintain a 'facility' in Nicosia that provides surveillance and listening capability for the Middle East, North Africa, the Balkans, Russia and beyond.  Cyprus has also been a staging point for various UK-US intelligence and military operations over the past 60 years, most recently in reconnaissance and air support for the war in Libya.  

So back to our dinner last week, it was fascinating but also challenging to hear the present reality of families who are dealing with the separation and anxiety of having a loved spouse currently serving in an active conflict like Afghanistan.  Generally not what you hear about with a normal dinner conversation, and certainly provides some perspective.

A radar/listening station high in the Troodos Mountains