Letters from Cyprus: Afghanistan - an uncertain future?

The landscape on descent into Kabul

Last week I travelled back to Afghanistan to meet with staff and various external stakeholders. It's been over two years since my last visit, and much has changed during this time. In some ways the country has made progress, but other elements of the social and political fabric of Afghan society remain as fragile as ever. The pending withdrawal of a majority of the international troops next year, along with presidential elections in April, are both elements that contribute to a general sense of uncertainty and pessimism about the future. All this in a country that has effectively had some form of civil conflict ongoing for the last 40 years.

Flying into Kabul is always a fascinating, if not jolting experience. Aircraft approach from high altitude and then descend on a steep 'corkscrew' flightpath because of the mountainous terrain around the city. From the air the city and surrounds resembles a strange moonscape. Kabul International Airport is a joint military facility, and it's not uncommon to see huge US or other coalition military transports lining up for departure among the various commercial aircraft. Likewise the hundreds of civilian and military helicopters at Kabul airport bear testament to mountainous and inaccessible terrain across the country.

Welcome to Kabul International Airport!

In some ways it feels like Kabul these days resembles a wild west town. There is massive security everywhere, and the embassy precinct is like a fortress. I met with a colleague at Australian embassy during my visit, and was quite staggered by the security precautions and restrictions they operate under. There are also a large number of foreign contractors working in Afghanistan, and I couldn't help but notice a certain 'look' about many of these workers. Often muscle-bound and with short-cropped haircuts, these civilian contractors walk around wearing standard greens, with utility belts and vests carrying enough equipment (knives, satphones, first aid kits and the occasion pistol) to deal with any situation. They often travel in groups, and the standard mode of transport is an armour-plated Toyota Landcruiser or Dodge Ram. Some of these folks would not look out of place in a Rambo film, and I can't help but think that if this is 'face' of the west to many Afghanis, this does not help to move the country forward in any meaningful manner.

Downtown Herat

On my visit I also travelled to Herat in Western Afghanistan, where most of our World Vision projects are located. Due to security reasons and other factors the WV program has consolidated over the last few years, and we now have approximately 300 committed and professional Afghan staff, and a small number of international staff involved in the program. The primary focus of our program continues to be on maternal/child health and education, both of which remain as critical issues in the country.

I am often struck by the warmth and graciousness of the Afghan people, and my recent visit was no exception to this. Staff and community members alike are unfailingly hospitable, and it can be humbling to receive overwhelming generosity from people who at face value may have little to give in material terms. Sometimes it's the small things that can strike you the most, like the Afghan consular office at the embassy in Dubai who managed to sooth the frayed tempers of a large group of foreigners who had been waiting all day to have their passports and visas issued, by using humour and a sort of 'passport bingo' game to distribute the completed passports and visas; or the security guards at Herat airport who were gracious and almost apologetic about the number of times you have to be searched and go through various security checks prior to boarding the aircraft!

As with any protracted conflict, it is often the innocent majority who suffer the most, and as people consider the country's uncertain future over the coming 12 months, there are signifcant concerns that the country may again fall back into a state of warlordism or a resurgence of the Taliban. This outcome would be very challenging for a country that has already endured so much.

As I was leaving Herat, it was a moment of pause and reflection for me to see a large number of kites flying from houses, streets and apartment rooftops alike. Kite flying is of course a national pastime for children in Afghanistan, especially in the autumn months when the winds are fresh and before the winter snows arrive. There is a profound simplicity about a child flying a kite, and I was struck that in the midst of the overwhelming complexity that characterises present day Afghanistan, that something so simple and profound could still be so foundational in the life of a child growing up in this country. Someone once wrote: 'save a child and you can save a country'. I wonder how apt this is in a place like Afghanistan?