Afghanistan - an uncertain future?

The landscape on descent into Kabul

Last week I travelled back to Afghanistan to meet with staff and various external stakeholders.  It's been over two years since my last visit, and much has changed during this time.  In some ways the country has made progress, but other elements of the social and political fabric of Afghan society remain as fragile as ever. The pending withdrawal of a majority of the international troops next year, along with presidential elections in April, are both elements that contribute to a general sense of uncertainty and pessimism about the future.  All this in a country that has effectively had some form of civil conflict ongoing for the last 40 years. 

Flying into Kabul is always a fascinating, if not jolting experience.  Aircraft approach from high altitude and then descend on a steep 'corkscrew' flightpath because of the mountainous terrain around the city.  From the air the city and surrounds resembles a strange moonscape.  Kabul International Airport is a joint military facility, and it's not uncommon to see huge US or other coalition military transports lining up for departure among the various commercial aircraft.  Likewise the hundreds of civilian and military helicopters at Kabul airport bear testament to mountainous and inaccessible terrain across the country.   

Welcome to Kabul International Airport!

In some ways it feels like Kabul these days resembles a wild west town.  There is massive security everywhere, and the embassy precinct is like a fortress.  I met with a colleague at Australian embassy during my visit, and was quite staggered by the security precautions and restrictions they operate under.  There are also a large number of foreign contractors working in Afghanistan, and I couldn't help but notice a certain 'look' about many of these workers.  Often muscle-bound and with short-cropped haircuts, these civilian contractors walk around wearing standard greens, with utility belts and vests carrying enough equipment (knives, satphones, first aid kits and the occasion pistol) to deal with any situation.  They often travel in groups, and the standard mode of transport is an armour-plated Toyota Landcruiser or Dodge Ram.  Some of these folks would not look out of place in a Rambo film, and I can't help but think that if this is 'face' of the west to many Afghanis, this does not help to move the country forward in any meaningful manner.

Downtown Herat

On my visit I also travelled to Herat in Western Afghanistan, where most of our World Vision projects are located.  Due to security reasons and other factors the WV program has consolidated over the last few years, and we now have approximately 300 committed and professional Afghan staff, and a small number of international staff involved in the program.  The primary focus of our program continues to be on maternal/child health and education, both of which remain as critical issues in the country.  

I am often struck by the warmth and graciousness of the Afghan people, and my recent visit was no exception to this.  Staff and community members alike are unfailingly hospitable, and it can be humbling to receive overwhelming generosity from people who at face value may have little to give in material terms.  Sometimes it's the small things that can strike you the most, like the Afghan consular office at the embassy in Dubai who managed to sooth the frayed tempers of a large group of foreigners who had been waiting all day to have their passports and visas issued, by using humour and a sort of 'passport bingo' game to distribute the completed passports and visas; or the security guards at Herat airport who were gracious and almost apologetic about the number of times you have to be searched and go through various security checks prior to boarding the aircraft!    

As with any protracted conflict, it is often the innocent majority who suffer the most, and as people consider the country's uncertain future over the coming 12 months, there are signifcant concerns that the country may again fall back into a state of warlordism or a resurgence of the Taliban.  This outcome would be very challenging for a country that has already endured so much.

As I was leaving Herat, it was a moment of pause and reflection for me to see a large number of kites flying from houses, streets and apartment rooftops alike.  Kite flying is of course a national pastime for children in Afghanistan, especially in the autumn months when the winds are fresh and before the winter snows arrive.  There is a profound simplicity about a child flying a kite, and I was struck that in the midst of the overwhelming complexity that characterises present day Afghanistan, that something so simple and profound could still be so foundational in the life of a child growing up in this country.  Someone once wrote: 'save a child and you can save a country'.  I wonder how apt this is in a place like Afghanistan?  

A joint project with the Afghan Ministry of Health
to build a new teaching hospital for midwives

The 'burka' shops in Herat.  

Boy on a bicycle with his kite

The Great Mosque of Herat with amazing ceramic tiles

15th century minarets in Herat.  These were once
completely covered with colourful ceramic tiles.

Kites in Herat.......

Sam Breaks His Arm Yet Again

Just when we thought things were going quite smoothly and cruising toward the end of the week, something unexpected came along.  Unexpected but not unprecedented for it is almost 6 months ago to the day that the same thing happened.

Whilst playing on the school's play equipment, climbing up some rope, another student raced past and Sam lost his footing. As he fell, he tried to avoid the boy that was running past below so as not to fall on top of him.  He did this quite successfully and put out his arm to break the fall. The same right arm!  Perhaps if he'd fallen on top of the boy below it may have made for a softer landing...

Anyway, to cut a long gory story short (his arm was mangled by the way), we took him straight to hospital where they put him in a wheelchair and had him x-rayed immediately. He was white as a ghost in the face, shaking a little in the legs and working very hard at staying 'in the moment' despite the intense pain he was in.  When I asked him how much it hurt out of 10 (with 10 being the most), he replied with all seriousness "a 4"!  This number became quite significant about 45mins later when he realised that he'd have to go under a general anaesthetic which involved a needle.  Thinking that it would be as painful as the local one he'd endured in his arm back at Easter time he adamantly declared that the pain had reduced to a 2 and he really wouldn't be needing an operation!  In his own words: "I'm fine, really"

An hour later and Sam was wheeled out of surgery.  A little dazed but all good with colour back in his face and a solid cast right up to his arm pit.  Lucky he has already taught himself to write with his left hand and lucky we're all done with the swimming for the season.  The cast might get a bit wet in our November trip to London but he'll be back dancing for the Christmas shows in no time.

And we all said... "what a brave boy".  A big thank you to the American Academy P.E. staff who kept him suitably distracted in the aftermath, and the many friends who rang, wrote cards and gave gifts.

this is not natural....

and neither is this...

Sam is wheeled away for his first experience of surgery.

A mid-autumn swim

Earlier this month we had a few weeks of cooler weather which was a welcome change after the long hot summer.  Swimmers and fans were put away and blankets came out on the beds.  Then last week the sun came back, so we've recently done a few beach trips to make the most of the late warm weather.   The Mediterranean remains a very pleasant 21 or 22 degrees, so lovely for a dip, despite the fact that the Cypriot 'season' for swimming has long since passed.  Cypriots seem to be quite ritualistic when it comes to swimming in the ocean.  There's a season for swimming, which starts around the 1st July and ends at beginning of September.  Outside of this time it's not so common to find locals swimming, regardless of whether it's hot or cold.  This perceived 'season', however, does not apply to the multitude of Russian, German, Israeli and British tourists who can still be found on the beaches taking in a final dose of Vitamin D before returning to the rapidly cooling climes at home.  As we sat on the beach last Sunday basking in the sun, we were talking to some friends in Europe who said that their maximum temperature that day was 5 degrees!  We certainly do not take the temperate Cypriot climate for granted, and have grown to love the changing of the seasons here.

The other natural feature this time of year is the clarity of the air. At certain times of the year, Cyprus can be very dusty as strong southerly breezes whip up great dust clouds from the Sahara desert and Egypt and deposit it all over the island.  Not a good time to wash a car or try and keep clothes clean!  But at other times of year, such as now, the air is clear.  From the mountain range to the north of Nicosia, you can clearly see Turkey and even some of the higher peaks of Lebanon or Syria from the north east part of the island. The changing of the seasons is a beautiful time of year. Cool mornings and evenings, but days warm with plenty of sun.

The kids are all well.  The school year is now in full swing, and all of them are enjoying their respective classes and teachers.  A brief snapshot of what each is up to:

Anna proudly shares with us the Greek numbers and words she is learning each day, and currently has not one but two boyfriends (her words, not ours)!  These young boys do not stand a chance with Anna calling the shots!

Jessie currently has three loves in her life: music, acting and Zoe the dog.  She plays the flute lots, and is also loving playing the oboe. She enjoys 'flexing her muscles' as a prefect at school, and can sometimes be found threatening younger siblings with detention or various other sanctions if they misbehave:)    

Angus is pretty chilled out in general.  Nothing seems to be much of a drama for him. He loves football, and is playing three times a week at Arsenal football school and also on weekends in the UN competition.  He has aspirations to be the next Messi or Ronaldo.  Nothing wrong with supporting such hopes so we can retire early.

Sam's great love at the moment is theatre and performing.  He's quite the thespian (nothing new there), but his interest has increased since he joined a drama and dance group.  His current fascination is with the musical 'Matilda', which we are hoping to all go and see as part of family trip to the UK shortly.  He still diligently checks the weather each day (concerned about rain) so we're not sure how he will find the UK!

The kids continue to generate a prolific amount of noise, but are happy and healthy at the moment which is a blessing.

The Godfather in Cyprus?  It's hard to see in the photo,
but this gentleman was walking up and down the beach
in the water carrying and smoking an oversized Cuban
cigar.  Just what you feel like at the beach???  

Sam not ready to smile as his older siblings try to convince
him that the Lion King will be better viewing on the
West End than Matilda.

Cats by the sea

Swimming by the sea caves

Sam and his good friend Carolina

Angus in action at a street football competition

Я живу по сусідству, будь ласка, візьми мене додому

The title of this blog is Ukrainian, and translates as 'I live next door, please take me home'.  This is the Cyrillic text that was carefully copied by Jessie from google translate, written on a note and placed inside the gate of the Ukrainian embassy next door after Zoe was accidentally locked inside the embassy compound overnight last weekend.  The next morning, the embassy staff arrived, quickly freed Zoe and commended Jessie on her newly discovered command of the Ukrainian dialect!  I returned home from Pakistan on Saturday and was immediately briefed by Jessie on Zoe's accidental incarceration and the drama that ensued.  Quite some ingenuity on her part we thought, to send an SOS message in Ukrainian to the embassy staff!

Speaking of things pet-related, last Sunday marked the annual Blessing of the Pets service at our church.  This is the service that remembers St Francis of Assisi, and his love for all creatures.  Unlike like last year, where we only had a picture of Nanna's dog Toby to include in the service, this year we had actual pets with us, including Zoe of course, and also two birds Austin and Allie.  They were accompanied by a menagerie of other animals, and the normal chaos ensued as dogs, cats, birds and hamsters were ushered in and out of the church. Nanna's dog Toby was still represented, with Anna dutifully holding and stroking a picture of him as the blessing water was sprinkled.

The kids had a great day, and for a brief moment the animals seemed happier and better behaved (or maybe that was just our imagination)??!  

Anna's best friend Darcy, with a picture of her
granny's dog