Thursday, September 26, 2013

Misery and Hope

Inside one of the refugee centres in Saida
Earlier this week I was back in Lebanon to meet with staff and visit field sites for the rapidly expanding Syrian refugee response.   Since my last visit to Lebanon the number of Syrian refugees has significantly grown, with current estimates of well over 1 million refugees in a country with a population of only 4 million.  This is placing enormous strain on an already fragile society in Lebanon, and tensions between host communities and refugees are increasing.   

On Monday I travelled to Saida, approximately one hour to the south of Beirut.  Saida is the largest city in the south of Lebanon, and is frequently mentioned in the bible.  Like most other cities and towns in Lebanon, Saida is hosting thousands of Syrian refugees in private homes, shops and communal spaces.   Conditions on the whole for the refugees are pretty horrendous, particularly in communal spaces that have been opened up in empty municipal buildings and offices.  In one particular site we visited, I asked an older lady what it was like to be living there, and her one word reply was 'misery'.  I was accompanied on the visit by the CEO of World Vision UK, Justin Byworth, along with WV Lebanon staff.  Justin captured some of his experience and reflections from the visit in a recent piece of writing.  An excerpt is included below:

'Surrounded by tears again and again today I saw firsthand what Syria’s descent means for its mothers and fathers, sons and daughters, in so many lost and broken lives just as real and precious as yours or mine and all we hold dear.
Hamed has such intensity in his eyes when he describes how he saw his mother die. “The first rocket fell in the compound, the second hit the house. My father took her in his arms, but it was too late. We ran from one place to another escaping the bombs, we couldn’t even bury her because they were hitting the cemetery”. His father Brahim, wept quietly beside me as Hamed spoke. Not so quiet was the wailing of Hamed’s grandmother Mariam as she told of the death of her brother and sixteen family members in the chemical attack that shocked the world and of four surviving relatives who are “between life and death – waking up sick and trembling”. Abdullah, just behind me cries “Look at me, I am a stranger in a land I don’t know and my children are lost. My three boys were taken, and my five beautiful girls are homeless somewhere in Syria”. My Lebanese colleague, Patricia, who’s seen so much of this over the past two years, quietly wipes away her own tears.
From the crowded, dilapidated old office block floor that serves as home to Hamed and 200 other refugees to a cramped, unbelievably grimy room behind stacks of car tyres at the back of a garage to meet the family of tiny Youssef, new to the world just 48 hours ago. His mother Safa, who is clearly still in pain with cramps, gave birth to him here with no medical help and Youssef’s 2 year old brother Said lies asleep feverish beside them. The poor hygiene is palpable, my shirt sticking to the oily wall as I lean back. Grandmother Shahira tells an almost biblical story of moving ten times in Syria over two years before coming here and with two disabled young men as sons, how they were told “No more room, no more room, we can’t take any more” in place after place. As unregistered refugees they received no assistance until a neighbour brought World Vision to see them. Shahira and auntie Noura speak with passion and tears “We are Syrians, we have lost our country.” “We are hungry, scared and none of my children have seen school in more than two years. Take care of your country!”
Justin_Byworth_Baby_Youssef.JPGYet amongst the sorrow somehow there is hope, joy even. And it is children that manifest this. Safa and her family exude the same pride at Youssef as I’ve seen and experienced with my wife Mischka at the birth of each of our four children. Safa’s sister-in-law shows us the bank card through which World Vision provides their family £100 a month for food and proclaims with a huge smile, “We used it to buy nappies this time!” 8 year old Aiya proudly heads for school in her new uniform and tells me “I want to be a doctor and help the poor. Shahira describes how happy they were to have Hadija’s engagement party in their tiny home and Auntie Noura tells us “we are from Homs – we are known for our light hearts, we can still sing”.
As Safa passed tiny newborn Youssef into my arms I found myself telling them how my daughter Maia’s birth was followed within days by the death of my wife Mischka’s father and how I recognise the bittersweet experience of rejoicing and grieving at the same time.
There is so much more to tell from today. World Vision’s new water and hygiene programme for the Syrian refugees, funded by the British government; the innovative e-card method of providing basic relief to unregistered refugees; The local Sheikh who is committed to bringing Christian and Muslim, Sunni and Shia together to build peace; World Vision’s fantastic Lebanese staff – so committed, capable and caring."  Justin Byworth, Sept 2013
Below one of the refugee centres.
Children play close to this area.
It's confronting and challenging to hear the stories of Syrian refugees first hand.  I often find myself thinking about our own children, and how different their reality would be if they were in the same situation as many of the children we met this week.  The stories we heard and the pain we saw stays with you, and I think for me it remains a journey in terms of how I process this, or what I do with it.  A call to action, perhaps? A cry for justice and a prayer for peace, I would hope so?  But I think most of all a profound sadness and sense of human frailty, and call for God's mercy for the people of Syria.  Miserere!

To read more about the current situation in Lebanon, the report you can access at this link was done by World Vision earlier this year, and provides a good overview.

Meeting the Sheikh

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Back to school!

Here we are back in the home routine, after the long hot hazy summer.  Hazy because that's what the horizon always looked like on the drive to the beach, and hazy because I can't quite articulate how we passed 11 out of 12 weeks mostly here in Nicosia.  Overall, for me as a Mum, it was the best summer we've had here and what I had hoped it would be like.  No early starts, no routines, minimal plans, less social engagements, lots of reading and mid-day films and heaps of frozen yogurt.



After that kind of summer break, finished off with our wonderful experience in Turkey, it was quite a shock to return to no Menaka for the first 5 days (she was in Sri Lanka) and lots to prepare for going back to school.  I definitely had a few 'moments' in which I wondered how I will cope transitioning back to full domestic and cooking duties in Sydney! The endless tasks around the house, the need for the kids to help more and the physical exhaustion at the end of the day......it all came flooding back to me.  No doubt I'll need to give myself a fair amount of time to adjust back to reality when we return.  But in the meantime, I intend to fully appreciate this Cyprus experience. One way I love to do this is around 5.30pm when Monica's preparing dinner, and the taxi-ing around is over, I get to hang out with the kids, teach then how to set the table or do something with just one of them.  What a treat!


All of us were happy to have Menaka back!
The children have been back at school one week now.  The excitement of the annual 'stationary shop' has passed, we've done the shoe shopping, labelled the uniforms, met the new kids, and 'sussed' out the teachers. The school routine has begun with early mornings (6.50am bus) and busy afternoons.  Jessie is in Yr 6, Angus in Yr 5, Sam in Yr 1 now wearing the school uniform, and Anna in Foundation 2 Pre-School.  Some of the exciting and interesting conversations going around our house this past week:

Jessie: "Mum, I'm a Senior Prefect!" and "That mouse is innocent! Don't kill it!"
Angus: "Ha Ha, the teacher didn't say anything about my hair".
Sam: "Do you think it might rain today?" (his latest concern) and proudly "we've already been to assembly TWICE this week"
Anna: "Mum, when it's P.E. day, I wear my football shoes - OK?" and "I want to visit Greece because that's where Lucas comes from".  Anna has also started playing football with Arsenal football school, and told us the other day she would like to become a boy....!



For me, it was nice to have a week catching up on appointments.  Doctors, Dentists, Hairdressers etc...The dental situation is ongoing for the next few weeks unfortunately.  I've learnt a hard lesson but nothing that can't be rectified.  (ie: KNOW for a fact that your dentist is good before you even sit in the chair and...don't make appointments just before you fly because fillings can explode at high altitude)  OUCH!!!! No, don't worry - I didn't experience the latter; it's just a fact that would have been handy to know as then I wouldn't be in this situation.

So whilst the kids are at school until 1.30pm, I am enjoying a bit of quiet in the house and having the mornings to myself.  I wish it were as serene as it sounds but, like many Mums when all their kids finally go to school, it still feels like a juggle with everything taking longer than originally thought.  Once the groceries and the Sunday School planning/admin is done, I'm trying to carve out time to complete a few courses that will help to prepare me professionally for when we return to Sydney.  I'm also seeing a few young people who need some specific therapeutic help and I'm really enjoying this.
There's a book group I attend that's asking me to read all sorts of strange novels and then there's volunteering at the school...but not too much!  Apart from that, I'm trying to get back into running and hoping to do a 5km event in December (after 5 years this is a SLOW process!).

Speaking of December; may it roll along quickly as Mum and Dad are coming for Christmas!

Aahh!! A mouse in the house!










"You don't need to walk me in today Mum,
I'll catch the bus!"




















First day back; some happier than others...

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

A short guide to the Middle East

Challenging times in Syria and the sub-region as the US lobbies to shore up multilateral support for military action against Syria.  So far the US has only confirmed support from France, and the standoff continues between the major powers on what, if any action should be taken in response to the suspected use of chemical weapons by the Assad regime against its own people.  

There are no good scenarios for Syria, and any intervention by foreign powers has the potential to escalate into a broader conflict, particularly impacting neighbouring countries of Jordan, Turkey, Lebanon and Israel. 

Any foreign military intervention would also be likely to trigger a further mass movement of refugees into neighbouring countries.  It is forecast that by the end of this year, the number of refugees in neighbouring countries (including Cyprus) could exceed 3 million people.   

World Vision has a large number of staff and emergency programs active in Jordan, Lebanon and Syria itself, so we continue to monitor developments closely.  There is a fine line to walk between ensuring effective positioning for ongoing response to the worsening humanitarian crisis, and also managing any increased risks to staff and programming if any significant escalation in the conflict should occur.


A few more boats in the Mediterranean!


Zaatari refugee camp in Jordan


Saturday, September 7, 2013

The Turquoise Coast in Turkey

Angus in flight
After a long hot summer in Cyprus, we headed off two weeks ago for a family break in Turkey.  We took a 40 minute flight to the city of Antalya, which is on the South Western coast of Turkey.  The first thing that struck us upon arriving in Antalya was the beautiful coastline flanked by spectacular mountains. There are several 3000m+ peaks in close proximity to the coast.  With this dramatic backdrop, Antalya is a bustling commercial and tourist city with a population of around 1million people.  It has a lovely fortified old city around an ancient harbour, with an abundance of all the normal markets, bazaars and restaurants that you expect to find in Turkey, along with a healthy dose of driving chaos!


After a few days in Antalya, we headed 200km west along a spectacular coastal road to our main holiday destination in Kas.  Kas is a small town of around 5000 people, and is a popular diving and yachting location.  It sits adjacent to an archipelago of islands that form part of the Turkish Riviera or Turquoise Coast.  The water is crystal clear, and there is much history around the town as it lies on the Lycean Way which is an ancient trade and travelling route that passes through this part of Turkey.  We stayed in a great villa perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean, and the kids spend most of their time in the pool watching the boats sail past or jumping off rocks into the sea.  We also spent a few days sailing around the islands which was both relaxing and also a good way to see the area as the weather was very hot.  


Interestingly just off the coast near Kas lies the Greek Island of Meis which you can visit easily by ferry, so long as you have your passport.  Greek influence is quite apparent in this part of Turkey, and there is a long history of conflict and population exchange between Greece and Turkey.  This history helps to better inform our understanding of the longstanding impasse between Greece and Turkey over Cyprus.  As a family we enjoyed the change of being immersed in Turkish culture.  English is not commonly spoken in this part of Turkey, but people were friendly and accommodating.  


Turkey is a social and cultural phenomenon.  With a population of more than 80 million people, it is its own entity, and you have to look hard to find evidence of external cultural influences shaping the social and cultural fabric of the country.  Perhaps there is some Arabic influence in parts, but on the whole it would seem that Turkey is predominantly shaped by..... Turkey!   On the radio stations I don't think we heard a word of English or English song during the whole time we were there.  


Crowds gather in Kas with lighted torches to celebrate
Victory Day. Note the picture of Attaturk beside the flag.
Whilst we were in Kas, the Turks celebrated Victory Day which commemorates the famous Turkish leader Kemal Attaturk, along with various military victories. It was quite to sight to see thousands of people marching into the centre of the town to dance, sing and pay homage to Attaturk and their country.  Statues and pictures of Attaturk are literally everywhere, and I saw a number of males sporting smart looking Attaturk tattoos. Even our hire car had a somewhat haunting picture of Attaturk on the rear windscreen.

On a final note, it was both sobering and surreal in Kas to look out at the Mediterranean each day from the relative comfort and opulence of our pool, knowing that in that same ocean and just a few hundred kilometres away, the drums of war are beating louder as the US and Russia mobilise their warships as regional tensions increase around Syria.  May God have mercy on us all.

All up we had a lovely restful break, and have now returned to Cyprus ready to commence what promises to be a busy work and school year.  

A rare moment of peace!
Anna perfecting the art of the belly flop.....



Two boys in flight

A Lycean tomb



Entrance to Kas Harbour








Where did that innocent 7 year old go?