Syria descends....

Tim Costello with Syrian refugees in Lebanon

Syria at war.  It now ranks as the world's largest refugee crisis since Rwanda, and the situation continues to deteriorate.  It is estimated that there are more than 4 million people internally displaced within Syria, and more than 1.5 million who have fled to neighbouring countries as refugees. World Vision is responding on a number of fronts, with emergency response activities ongoing in Lebanon, Jordan and now also in Syria itself.  The situation is complex and volatile, and presents significant operational challenges.  But the need is immense, and far exceeds the current funding available or capacity of NGOs/UN agencies to respond.  Tim Costello, CEO of World Vision Australia was recently in Lebanon and Jordan, and wrote the following piece following the visit:

Last week I sat in a tent in Lebanon with a Syrian refugee couple who had escaped with their five children. Tameer and Delal fled with only the clothes they were wearing after three of their neighbours - including a cousin - were killed outside their Damascus home by an aerial bombing campaign. Once they reached the Lebanese border, the family walked for more than a day before finding help through World Vision in the Bekaa Valley.

Tameer and Delal's children cannot go to Lebanese schools due to overcrowding, and when I met them, five months after their escape, the kids were desperately bored. Each of them told me their greatest wish was to go to school.  I asked Tameer if he had hope, because this seems to be profoundly important for many refugees. He said his faith in the omnipotence of Allah had not been shaken, but he prayed each day to return to his Damascus home and lead a normal life as an iron worker. The humiliation he felt as a result of not being able to provide for his family was matched only by the anxiety and strain etched into his wife's face.

As fate would have it, a few days earlier I had been in the company of someone who, if not omnipotent, is certainly one of the world's most powerful leaders. This is a man whose decisions could determine the fate of Tameer's family and millions of other Syrian refugees.  I was in Moscow to meet Russian President Vladimir Putin in my role leading Australia's civil society response to the policies of the G20. I raised with Putin the urgent need to guarantee humanitarian space in Syria, so aid agencies could reach the 4 million refugees now internally displaced in Syria. I begged him not to keep supplying arms. I did not see how more weapons could mean anything but more deaths. Already more than 93,000 Syrians have lost their lives in this conflict. He was prepared to say he would push for a diplomatic solution at Geneva 2 - a promise he kept the next day when he attended the G8 meeting. But I left convinced the war in Syria is now a war by proxy, with Russia, Iran, Turkey, Saudi Arabia and Qatar - not to mention the West - positioning for their preferred political outcome. In doing so, they are flooding an already weapons-drenched region with more arms. It could be years before Tameer can go home.

But hope came to me in a surprise encounter. Back in Beirut I was walking to my hotel one evening and was beckoned into a small workshop and offered coffee by a stranger. The man was a Lebanese Christian named Milat. Sitting in the torchlight was a Syrian Sunni woman and her two sons. Without any place to call home, Milat had taken them in. He explained he supported President Assad as most Christians in the region did but the woman and her sons were praying for the rebels' victory.  Genuinely surprised, I asked how he could live with such political tension and provide food and shelter for them with no end in sight. He shrugged and said they were fellow humans. It was just so simple and his hospitality struck me as a modern-day re-run of the Good Samaritan, a story of 2000 years ago.

Many Lebanese are deeply concerned that the new arrivals from Syria will stay like the Palestinians did after 1948, and many others are terrified by the prospect of Lebanon being destabilised. And yet, thousands of Lebanese like Milat have taken these refugees into their homes.

I wondered how many Australians would respond like this. It stunned me to think that with an estimated 550,000 Syrian refugees now in Lebanon, a country of just 4.3 million people, citizens still find it in their hearts to treat the refugees as humans. It gave me hope and perspective. If only the world's leaders, with the fate of Syria in their hands, could meet Milat.

Tim Costello   July 2013

It is anticipated that by Christmas every fourth person
 in Lebanon will be a refugee

Construction underway for Azraq camp in Jordan,
which will host up to 130,000 refugees.  World Vision
is carrying out all water and sanitation works for the camp.

Makeshift Syrian refugee camp in Lebanon 

Initial shelter construction at Azraq camp in Jordan

British bases in Cyprus

Last week at a dinner with friends, it was interesting to meet a number of families serving with the British army.  In several cases, we met only the spouse and children, as the other partner is currently serving in Afghanistan.  This is one of the more unexpected elements of people you meet in Cyprus.  The British army and airforce currently have more than 3000 troops based in Cyprus, and the island continues to play an important role as a staging post for British forces activities in Afghanistan.  All troops who are either deploying to, or returning from Afghanistan spend time in Cyprus, and a number of families with one member on active duty in Afghanistan are based here.  

The relationship between Cyprus and Britain is complex, and in some ways reflects the broader history of Cyprus as a pawn in a broader strategic chess game between various major powers.  The island has essentially been occupied or under the influence of different foreign powers for the last few thousand years, and the British colonial influence from WWI through to the 1950's is but one chapter in long line of 'occupations' by various forces going back well before the Crusades.  This fact alone makes the history of the island so compelling, and the influences (cultural, architectural, political and social) of different periods of occupation remain highly visible to this day.  

When Cyprus was finally granted independence in 1960, the British extracted their pound of flesh, and signed an agreement over what became known as the Sovereign Base Areas.  These were basically two areas on the island that were to be retained by Britain for military purposes.  To this day both these areas continue be fully utilised by British forces, and provide them with an important strategic staging point in the Mediterranean.  In fact when you drive into either of these areas, you are in effect entering sovereign British territory that no longer comes under the legal jurisdiction of Cyprus.  So if you are booked speeding for example, it's like a British traffic fine, payable to her Majesty's Government.....

British troops in Cyprus en-route to Afghanistan 

It's not only the British who have strategic military interests in Cyprus.  The US also maintain a 'facility' in Nicosia that provides surveillance and listening capability for the Middle East, North Africa, the Balkans, Russia and beyond.  Cyprus has also been a staging point for various UK-US intelligence and military operations over the past 60 years, most recently in reconnaissance and air support for the war in Libya.  

So back to our dinner last week, it was fascinating but also challenging to hear the present reality of families who are dealing with the separation and anxiety of having a loved spouse currently serving in an active conflict like Afghanistan.  Generally not what you hear about with a normal dinner conversation, and certainly provides some perspective.

A radar/listening station high in the Troodos Mountains

Aaaahh....Summer!

Here we are in the middle of summer in Cyprus.  Our 3rd hot season here and loving it. 12 weeks of holidays for the kids, not too many obligations and a lot less people in town make for a much quieter, peaceful existence here in Nicosia.  A different rhythm evolves; one of cool early mornings spent walking or on the bike and evenings spent outside relaxing in the courtyard.  In the heat of the day we do quiet things inside; watch a film, draw, play games or read.  It's great to have a chunk of time to do NOTHING.  No big plans; just take it day by day.

Some of the things that I love about summer are:

• the 6am trip to the fruit & vegie market: the masses of plums, apricots, peaches, melon and nectarines;
• the fans whirring all night long;
• that lovely fatigued feeling the next morning after a day at the beach in the sun;
• the way the kids don't seem to affected by the heat at all (!?) yet it's consistently in the high 30's or low 40's every day;
• family walks after dinner with our dog Zoe;
• a trip into the old town for ice cream and to experience "a bit of humanity" (a regular quote from Ross there);
• the many souvlaki bars that open up on the street in the evenings;
• beach or water parks with the kids;
• the way the place comes to life in the evenings, with everyone out walking, cafes and many restaurants not filling up until 9 or 10 at night

and the list goes on....

Off to Inside Out summer school

This past week, the kids have been at a fantastic summer school called Inside Out.  Each day they were kept busy with a myriad of activities including volleyball, dodgeball, football, swimming, drama, music, Yoga, Hip Hop, Zumba, Pump, art, graffiti and, last but not least, WIPE-OUT.  They came home exhausted and went to bed early.  Perfect!  At the end of the week, they all performed a fun show for each other and Anna & Sam were very excited to receive the awards of The Most Amazing Starship and the kindest, funniest and best Earthling (respectively).  To top it all off; Menaka had a break from cooking lunches and I used those big chunks of quiet time to finally finish a course I'd started back in February.  That's a win-win all-round.

Summer school at home

The week prior to that, it was only Angus and Jessie on holidays.  We combined with 2 other families and created our own 3 day summer school for the kids.  That meant each parent created activities for a different day, and took all the kids.  It worked really well.  The kids loved it, and the parents also managed to get a break for 2 out of the 3 days.

Next week will be a bit different with no structured activities planned, except a day trip up to the mountains.  A necessary time of rest before it all begins again the following week! 

Resting in the heat of the day

A birthday for dad

Anna hits the slides

Dinner by the beach

Kataklysmos

Anna and Sam hit the water

Last Monday was a public holiday in Cyprus to commemorate an event known as Katakylsmos, which is celebrated at Pentecost 50 days after Orthodox Easter.  Katakylsmos was originally a pagan festival to celebrate Aphrodite, but has evolved into a Christian commemoration of the flood.  It is mainly celebrated in coastal towns in Cyprus, and involves a range of rituals with water, including water fights.

On the public holiday we headed to the north to a place called Escape Beach, which is somewhat notorious as this is the location where the Turkish troops first landed during 1974.  The only evidence of this today is a large monument and nearby war cemetery, and the beach now hosts a club and somewhat kitsch facilities that are quite typical in the north.  The location is stunning though, with a backdrop of towering mountains and beautiful clear water all around. Also plenty of Russians wearing lots of bling and ordering exotic drinks and spectacular fruit platters. 

We had a lovely day in the water. Anna has suddenly decided she can swim(!), and spent the day doing belly flops off the jetty into the water below.  Sam and Angus spent the day looking for fish and swimming across to the nearby limestone island complete with caves, and Jessie enjoyed lounging, swimming and reading a good book with mum.

Jessie gives her bro a massage!

A shave with Mustafa

The maestro prepares to get to work

One of the interesting elements of living in a divided city is the option to cross the border for quick shave.  Yesterday I crossed over to the north with a Korean/American friend who is shortly to return to the US.  We agreed that he should not return without experiencing a Turkish shave atleast once.  As gents we are typically not so accustomed to this level of grooming, but the Turks and Turkish Cypriots have truly mastered the art of shaving and hair removal.  Many men in Turkey would not dream of shaving themselves every morning, but would instead visit a barbers shop every few days for straight edge or cut-throat shave.  A visit to the barbers is considered a social event, and men commonly gather in barber shops for a shave, haircut, or just to drink tea and talk.

'Flaming' those ear hairs! 

And when it comes to a shave, nothing is rushed. Everything is done with precision and purpose, and somewhat unconventional techniques for hair removal are commonly applied.  This includes 'flaming', where a kerosene soaked cloth is ignited and then brushed against ears and nostrils to burn those pesky  unwanted hairs.  My friend and I yesterday observed a new approach, which was a complete ear wax, where a gentleman's ears and nostrils are filled with warm wax which sets and is then removed.  Ouch! Suffice to say we opted just for the 'flaming' and the regular cut-throat shave.   I'm not sure whether these techniques would pass muster in an OH&S audit in Australia, but they are very effective.

A shave is also accompanied by hot towels, cologne and a back, neck and shoulder massage.  All in all a fine way to spend a morning, especially for gents who are not used to such indulgences.  

The end of school and the beginning of summer!

Sam 'graduates' from pre-primary

The temperature is rising and summer is upon us.  38-40 degrees in Nicosia each day this week.  Jessie and Angus finished school last week, and Sam and Anna will finish up in another week and a half.  School doesn't start again until the second week of September, so it's a long break for them (and for us!).  The kids have had a really good school year, but by this time everyone is tired so the end of school and the winding up of various activities comes as a bit of a relief.  Over the last few weeks the kids have enjoyed taking part in the normal end of year concerts. This included Sam's 'graduation' from pre-primary school.  He starts the equivalent of Yr 1 after the summer.

Sam with his teachers Miss Dora and Miss Wendy

With the onset of hotter weather, many people head away from Cyprus to cooler parts of western Europe.  Somewhat ironic that at the same time there is an equal or greater influx of tourists coming to Cyprus from Russia, the UK and elsewhere.  We're planning to spend most of the summer here, but will head away for a few weeks in late August to Kas in Turkey, and we're also hoping to get across to Jerusalem with the older kids sometime in July.  

So overall we're looking forward to a slower few months, hopefully with plenty of time in the water.  

Here's a video of Sam and Anna's year end concert, and also a few other recent pictures of the kids and various activities.

Angus has loved UN soccer this year

Proud to receive the most valuable player award! 

The arrival of summer has seen the start of
a regular backyard badminton tournament

In the footsteps of Livingstone

Last week I travelled to Zambia for a strategy and planning meeting.  The meeting included a field visit to learn about some alternate development approaches that are being piloted in various communities in Zambia.  The primary reason that these programs are different is that every aspect of the development process is fully owned and facilitated by the community themselves, rather than a combination of internal and external inputs.  At face value this may only seem to be a subtle difference, but the impacts on the ground are profound, and it was both insightful and challenging to see how communities approach chronic issues in areas of malnutrition, hunger, child protection and economic development with a different approach.  At the heart of this approach also lies a community's capacity to develop its own resources over a period of time.

Community members explain their development process

Good development is both art and science, and these elements need to be balanced in equal measure to see systemic and sustainable positive change occur in communities.  If this were simple to achieve, poverty would not be the global issue it is today. Alas, whilst the concepts are simple, effective implementation is not straightforward and a range of internal or external factors can influence or constrain success.  Across the developing world, failed or stagnating projects are not uncommon, and my sense is that building and shaping effective development practice is more of a journey than a  defined end point or destination.  One of the key elements of the projects we visited in Zambia (and more broadly across World Vision), is an absolute focus on sustainable improvement of children's wellbeing.  Every aspect of the work is measured through this lens, and this in itself drives an important dynamic in measuring a 'return on investment' for the resources committed to community development (and related decisions about where investment should be prioritised or reduced).  In this regard, there is an interested confluence of corporate or business thinking, with traditional community development practice. 

The venue for our meeting was located close to Victoria Falls, and I was fortunate to be able to visit the falls during the visit.  The falls themselves are breathtaking, and I can well understand David Livingstone's journal notes after coming upon the falls for the first time in 1857. He wrote:

"the most wonderful site I had witnessed in Africa.  No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England.  It had never been seen before by European eyes, but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight".

The falls were in full flood during our visit, and the sound was deafening like a jet engine.  Water and blasting mist is everywhere, and it's hard to not be overwhelmed by the power and majesty of the falls.  I felt very privileged to visit such a special place, and have vowed to return with Sarah and the kids next time!  

On a final note, I also enjoyed running each morning with a colleague across the bridge over the Zambezi river right up to the Zimbabwe border point.  One of life's more interesting runs!

Zambezi River sunset, just above the falls.  The cloud
is the mist/spray coming off the falls

The daily run!