A fast moving train

If you travel on a fast speed train; the scenery is a blur.  If you travel a bit slower, perhaps even stopping at the stations, you get to enjoy every aspect of all that is going on around you.  The beauty of the season, the rural landscape, the various crops and that old farmer whom you enjoyed wondering what his life might be like.  You might not get as far in a cruising train, but you'll be able to tell a better story about your trip because you would have taken in more.  And so it is with the past 5 weeks for us.  Somehow we accidently stepped onto the fast train, and now it's hard to recall anything.  Thank goodness for photos...but I'll be reading the signs more carefully at the main station terminal from now on.

After months of planning, Lyn Worsley and her husband Neil arrived in Cyprus.  Whilst it was part holiday for them, it was also a prime opportunity to add a human face to this Resilience Doughnut I'd been spruiking for the last 2yrs.  I arranged for Lyn to conduct two public seminars: one for parents of teenagers and a workshop for teachers and the like who wanted to understand more about resilience and the RD model.  They both went off a treat and I felt as though I'd managed to grow a small group of enthusiastic "dough-nutters"in  Cyprus whom I might work with.  It was also a timely message for Cyprus, especially with the current economic crisis and related pressures on community to dig deep and find alternate resources for support. It was encouraging to have some media interest in Lyn's visit also. The best part if the visit however, was having Lyn and Neil stay and be part of our family for the time that they were here.  Sam was asking after them a full fortnight later!

Sarah and Lyn taking a walk in the Old Town

Jessie tries her hand at making ravioli

Straight after we saw the Worsley's off on the plane to Malta, we dashed downstairs to the Arrivals gate to greet Ross' sister Susie and our niece Sally.  What a reunion that was for the 2 cousins!

Aside from the shock of how loud and busy it is living with our family; I think they had a wonderful time.  For Sally to be around her cousins, do some shopping with Jessie and experience a day at school and for Susie to explore a bit of the island and relax a long way from work.

Heading toward St Hilarion Castle in northern Cyprus

Watching a Turkish boxmaker at work

The girls at Kyrenia

They also got to see the children's International Day: by far the best celebration on the school's calendar.  We'll remember Angus in this "extra cute" lion costume (!) and Jessie dancing as a pirate and Anna enjoying the whole on-stage experience with her pre-school "Busy Bees" class.  Sam would have been more than memorable as an arm-plastered Prickly Pear if only he didn't come down with a nasty virus on the day of the show.  No problem for Sam though; he got to sit down the front and watch the whole show next to Sally.  

It's always great to have family and friends come to visit....and that's AS WELL AS the obligatory Tim Tam delivery.  Thanks for coming Susie and Sally!  

Sam has been a real trooper about his broken arm.  Hardly a complaint.....but longing for a real bath and an ocean swim.  His cast comes off tomorrow - fingers crossed.  In the meantime I've taken on a small on-line course through the Australian Psychological Society.  Good to get another part of the brain activated and to force myself to sit still.  Really enjoying it so far; just need to dedicate more time to it.  Another highlight for me was a much needed 4hrs at the Katafiyo Retreat House in a village in the Troodos foothills - oh how I love that house and surrounds in spring time.  Somehow the "fast train" managed to change pace that day.

Ross has just returned from Pakistan, and we're looking to some time away as a family on a beach later this week with Orthodox Easter.  Καλό Πάσχα, or Happy Easter!

Angus and his mate Rashid

Menaka, smiling and helpful as always

Angus tries on his lion costume for the show.  We had to be
quick to get this photo!

Legacy or folly: Saakashvili's glass police stations

Mother Georgia, who towers above Tbilisi.
A wine goblet in one hand, a sword in the
other.  An apt description for Georgia.

Last week I was in the former Soviet Republic of Georgia.  One of the first things that strikes you when you travel in Georgia is the amount of glass.  The new airport terminal is all glass, despite the worn runway that makes for a rough landing, even in the smoothest of conditions.  As you drive into the capital Tbilisi, there are modern glass buildings everywhere.  The intriguing fact is that many of these buildings are actually police stations.  The story of how they came to be built from glass is an analogous to the broader journey of Georgia over the past 10 years.  

Georgia has a long history of organized crime activity dating back to the Soviet period and even earlier.  By the early 2000's, Georgia's mob bosses were among the leading crime figures in the entire former USSR.   Following the resignation of Georgia's president Eduard Shevardnadze after the so called 'Rose Revolution' in 2003, Mikheil Saakashvili became the new president.  He remained president until 2012, and was a generally popular, if not controversial pro-west leader who spearheaded a range of sweeping political and economic reforms.   

Upon coming to power, Saakashvili’s first and arguably most dramatic domestic actions consisted of a major crackdown on organised crime and Georgia’s corrupt law enforcement institutions. He used draconian measures to prosecute the organised crime bosses, imprisoning many and driving others into involuntary exile abroad. At the same time, top officials in many security ministries were fired, and in some cases forced to hand back millions of dollars worth of assets believed to have been obtained through illegal activities.

He also comprehensively reshaped the country’s police forces. Thousands of officers were fired on the spot, and the most corrupt police service, the highway police, was disbanded altogether. He also drastically increased police salaries and instituted stringent new hiring and promotion procedures, thereby recruiting into the force a new cohort of officers eager to earn an honest living as police.  As an indication, the average salary of a police officer in Georgia today, is 23 times higher than it was in 2004.

One of the most visible impacts of these reforms has been the reconstruction of many police stations across the country out of......glass.  This is intended to be a symbolic of Georgia's commitment to transparency and to eliminate corruption.  For some this is just theatre, and that the old ways of business still prevail (I heard it said that Saakashvili's relative owns the largest glass company in Georgia, although I suspect this may be more urban myth than fact)!  Whether it's theatre or not, the reform steps that Georgia has taken in the past 10 years would appear to be significant. 

I still remember my first visit to Georgia in 2001, and being stopped several times by police between the airport and the city with an expectation of a bribe payment.  Nowadays you are more likely to be stopped by a tourist coach as it disgorges tourists, stopping to photograph one of the many thousands of churches or new glass police stations!

Banks closed but hospitals open: Three x-rays in a week

Journalists camp outside the Cyprus parliament last week.
Nicosia was hit by a mini dust storm during the financial
crisis, which in many ways felt like a metaphor to the
broader events in Cyprus, and also in our own lives this
past week.

Life can surprise you sometimes.  Just when things seem to all be in place and going well, out of nowhere you can be hit by a series of events that you could never have predicted, but that all have the potential to knock you off-centre.  For us, the past week has been a bit like this.   Just as Cyprus has just weathered a financial storm, it feels like we've had a storm ourselves in which we've had to 'hook in and hold on'.  It all started last weekend, when Sarah and I went out for an early morning ride together.  The weather was quite cold, and Sarah, who was already feeling a little unwell, got some serious cold into her bones and promptly went down with fever and a racking cough.  A day or two passed with no improvement, and at two points throughout the week, the doctor thought it could have been pneumonia.  Thankfully the chest x-rays were clear, and so the most likely diagnosis was then a bad case of bronchitis.  Sarah was put onto an antibiotic, but after a few days the side effects were far worse than any illness the drugs were trying to cure, so she stopped taking it and resigned herself to resting and recovering naturally.  Needless to say, it threw her for six.

Ouch!  Sam's x-rays tell the story

Then to cap things off yesterday, while Sarah was home resting yesterday I was out with the kids at an Easter lunch in a village near Nicosia.  Whilst at the lunch poor Sam took a bad fall whilst on an easter egg hunt and broke his arm in two places.  A rapid drive to the hospital ensued.  Whilst travelling to the hospital a somewhat distressed and shocked Sam stoically said to me "Daddy, it's good that I didn't break both my arms, isn't it?"   Thankfully he was able to be seen promptly at the hospital by an excellent orthopaedic doctor who was able to fix the arm under a local anaesthetic, thereby saving a more detailed operation and a possible night in the hospital.   Sam was remarkably brave throughout, and there was a profound simplicity in how he processed the whole event.  Since getting home yesterday he's has been receiving lots of love and care, and one of his main concerns is how he is going to write at school on Tuesday, as well as how he'll be able to dance in some of his upcoming performances!  

Below is a clip of Sam telling us about his injury only hours afterward.

This confluence of events has reminded us of our frailty and need for God's grace.  There's a clarity in this thinking that can be both humbling and freeing when we realise we need to let go of any presumption that we are somehow in control.   

A couple of other milestones also passed recently: we had a first swim in the ocean for the year, Angus took his first communion in church on Sunday, and Anna finally ate some fruit! 

The family after Gus' first communion

A first swim: Jessie and her friend Iliana

Menaka and Gus

A breakthrough for Anna:)

Istanbul (not Constantinople)

Jenny and Sarah in front of Galata Tower

Some people may recall the song with the same title as this blog, covered by the band 'They Might be Giants' a few years back. Ah yes, the perennial question of historical ownership and identity of cities in this part of the world.  Istanbul has a long and fascinating history as a contested strategic capital for both the Ottoman and Byzantine empires, and the association for both Turks and Greeks to Istanbul remains strong to this day. So much so that the name 'Constantinople' is still used today by many members of the Eastern Orthodox church and Greeks in general.  

Istanbul is a remarkable city, both in terms of its geographic location and also the history contained within it.  Located right on the Bosphorus, which is a narrow stretch of water linking the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea, the city has always played a significant political, social and cultural role in the region.  The Bosphorus effectively divides the European continent from the Asian continent, and is one of the world's busiest waterways. Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, and currently has a population of more than 13 million people.   

Trying to cut the deal......actually, I wouldn't mind
working in a haberdashery

We travelled to Istanbul last weekend, where we were able to meet up with Ross' brother Bruce and his wife Jenny, who were also spending a few days there.  It was lovely to meet up with them, and despite the freezing weather (including some snow), we spent our time visiting various sites and attempting to negotiate some hard bargains in the many markets and shops.  Sarah almost had a canny Turkish shopkeeper in tears at one point as she continued to push an asking price down, and Jenny also showed suitable aplomb as she worked the markets to try and buy an elaborate kaftan (perhaps for Bruce to wear for special occasions at home??).  All great fun, and it was remarkable to watch the Turkish sellers at work.  We did succeed in buying a few items, but you're never quite sure whether that '100% guaranteed one-off original item', is not part of a much broader stock that will immediately be replaced after you've left the shop!

Foyer at the Pera Palace

We enjoyed staying at the Pera Palace, which is one of Istanbul's oldest hotels.  The hotel has hosted many famous guests over the last 100 years including Kemal Attaturk (the 'father' of modern Turkey), Agatha Christie and Ernest Hemmingway to name a few.   The hotel also used to accommodate guests travelling on the Orient Express, hence the link with Agatha Christie.  The hotel has been beautifully restored, and still boasts Istanbul's first elevator.  

From Istanbul Bruce and Jenny travelled on to Kosovo, and we returned to Cyprus, which is less than an hour's flying time away. It was great to have some time away for us together, and also to have spent some time with Bruce and Jenny.  Our kids were well cared for in our absence, so much so that upon our return Anna asked us when we were going away again!  Think it may have been all that chocolate that Menaka fed her??

The Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet

Bruce in action at the local markets

The Bosphorus

Topkapi Palace

The Cistern, beneath the old city

Istanbul's first elevator at the Pera
Palace Hotel.  It is still operating.

Cyprus on the financial brink

There have been some unprecedented events in Cyprus over the past week, with a financial crisis and Government deadlock over negotiation of terms for an economic bailout from Europe.  Banks have been closed for more than a week, and there is still no clarity as to when they may open again.  The catalyst for this weeks' events was an ultimatum from the European Central Bank regarding terms for a bailout package, which included the imposition of a one-off levy of between 6% to 10% on every bank account in the country. This proposed action provoked outrage and anger across the population, and was ultimately voted down by the Government.  With no bailout package negotiated, two of the largest banks in the country may collapse next week, with a resultant domino effect on other banks and the general economy in Cyprus, bankruptcy and eventual exit from the Eurozone.  There is also a related risk of contagion to other struggling European economies such as Greece, Italy and Spain.     

During the week the Cyprus Government has desperately sought alternative finance solutions to meet the bailout package requirements.  The competing influence and economic interests of both Russia and Europe have been in play, but there is still no deal.   This is a very challenging time for Cypriots, and people have spent the week queuing at cash machines as they try to recover as much money as they can from their accounts.  A full blown run on the banks is a real possibility when the banks eventually reopen.  There is already talk of fuel shortages and a range of other social impacts, and no-one is able to predict what would actually happen should Cyprus fall out of the Euro and revert back to its former currency the Cyprus Pound.  Protests are growing, and some shops have already started to move to only accepting cash.

We are fortunate in that we personally don't keep significant funds in Cyprus.  However a key challenge is to ensure there is sufficient cashflow to pay salaries and maintain operations through this time of uncertainty.

It's uncharted territory for Cyprus and Europe over the coming week.  Unfortunately there is no 'best case' scenario, only bad options for Cyprus, so people are hoping for a 'least worst' scenario to play out.

A Cacophony of NOISE

We don't always dress like this to go out...

For some reason, I have become acutely aware of the incredible NOISE that our family makes.  If it's not Jessie playing some kind of wind instrument, then it's Angus singing at the top of his voice from his bedroom (whilst doing homework) or it's Sam talking non-stop or Anna saying "I"m hungry" about twenty times over.  And then, every now and again, we have Monica entering from stage left to ask "what time for the dinner Sarah?".  If it's on a w'end, and Ross and I have something we want to say to each other.......FORGET IT!  Too hard; too noisy. 

So that's why mornings like this morning are great.  Jessie, Angus and Sam had already taken the bus to school before 7am, leaving us to have a quiet breakfast, get ready for the day and play a bit with Anna.  We then got on our bikes, rode to the pre-school, dropped her off and then cruised down into the old town for a morning ride together.  The streets there are still whisper quiet at 8.30am so it was a very pleasant ride on a beautiful spring morning.  Ross then rode off to work and I got to stop off in the park for a bit of quiet before heading home.  That's been one of the gifts of this time for me in Cyprus since the kids are now at school: rather than constantly moving from one thing to the next, simply taking time to 'be'.  To be quiet, to be still, to reflect and be thankful.

A few updates on the children at present:

Anna started pre-school 5 mornings a week last September and she is very happy in her routine there.  She's made some friends and loves to tell us over dinner who sat in the time out chair that day and what she played with "Lukas!".  She's crazy about balls and will kick or throw with anybody who'll stand there long enough.  She has a great time with Sam and Monica playing "babies" and loves to wind Jessie up by annoying our lovely dog Zoe.  Her eating and fussiness and refusal to try new foods is driving us all crazy and seems to require some genius to crack the code of her stubbornness.  Fortunately there is a positive 'food time' for her and that is helping Monica to bake and then licking the bowl.  She's looking forward to her 4th birthday next month and can't wait to ride a bike with training wheels and get some shoes which lace up and have her own watch and get the guitar she never got at Christmas and the list goes on......  

Sam is really growing up, now a big 6yr old.  He's speaking his mind (loudly), sticking up for himself against his siblings (usually by voice) and has even passed through a few fearful, potentially phobic stages that were plaguing him earlier.  He's reading well, enjoying school and has a number of friends, many of them girls (but not all).  Every friday afternoon, he attends a music, dance, drama class after school which he loves. Most of the time, when he's not playing a specific game at home, he is singing or dancing 'something'.  His favourite pastime seems to be to keep Mummy busy: talking, asking for things, getting hungry and the old "Mum, watch this!" Today he had a ball flying his kite in the forest for 'Green Monday', where Cypriots all traditionally fly kites and have picnics at the start of Orthodox Lent.  

Gus is now 9yrs old and loving getting older.  He plays soccer a few times a week and enjoys a guitar lesson every Wednesday with his new 'hip' teacher Dex, who is from the Ukraine.  School is all about having fun and the ball games to be had at break times.  His friends, Alexander, Rashid and Gaspar are a great little group.  He does pretty well at school and even better when the teacher can read his sloppy hand writing.  Recently, since swapping guitar teachers, he's had a bit more free time and we've enjoyed more bike riding together and chess games in the afternoon.  In a few weeks he'll take his first communion.  One more opportunity to snack at church : ))

Jessie is coming up for 11yrs in August and sometimes we think she's going on 14 a little prematurely.  I'm sure this is a fairly common experience; they simply can't wait to grow up.  We are both enjoying her quick wit and sense of humour that comes with getting older but perhaps her desire to stay up later and keep a messy room are a less enjoyable trade off.  She's currently in another 'instrument dilemma' in which she's trying out the oboe for a month in order to decide which other instrument she wants to take up.  It's a choice out of all the other ones she's tried and enjoyed: violin, piano, clarinet and now oboe.  It's great that she's incredibly enthusiastic about music but sometimes we are a little overwhelmed.  I think it's those musical Piper genes... Fortunately she's set on keeping flute as her no.1 instrument so we have some consistency there.  Jessie is also into the music, dance, drama class and is looking forward to performing in a small Wizard of Oz production coming up at the end of term.  Gymnastics keeps her fit and flexible but she's up for another change soon (perhaps she thinks she has to keep Mum busy?).  Nevertheless, I'm feeling very fortunate to be able to provide her with lots of opportunities to try things whilst she's motivated for this.  Over the weekend she stayed with her good friend Julia whilst Mum & Dad went to Istanbul.  I am sure she missed our dog Zoe more than us!

So despite the noise, it's a pretty good life over here at present.

The forests on Cyprus are still very green after a wet winter,
but will brown up soon with the arrival of warmer weather