Letters from Cyprus: Dogs and passports

The crossing into the north near Ledra Palace

A few weeks ago, we took a walk down in the old town with some visitors. We had planned to do a favourite walk, which crosses over to the north at the Ledra Palace checkpoint, and then circles back through the Arab quarter (Arabhamet) in the Turkish half of the old town before crossing back to the south at the main checkpoint in the centre of town. On this walk you traverse several distinct cultures and building styles in the space of just a few km, and get a real sense of the economic disparity that exists between the north and the south. The sun was shining bright, so we thought we'd take the dog with us. We didn't get far though, as we were stopped at the first Greek checkpoint and told that there was a new rule stating that animals were not allowed to cross. We found this somewhat ironic, given the number of cats and other animals that regularly traverse the buffer zone sans passport. Fortunately we have some friends who live close to the checkpoint, so were able to leave Zoe behind and carry on with our walk regardless.

Looking across towards the Arab quarter in the old town

It's interesting to ponder on some of the other challenges that the ongoing division of the island creates. For example, sewage and waste. In the old town itself, which is only approx 4km across, there are two distinct and segregated sewage and water systems; one for the north and one for the south, lest there be any possiblity of sewage flowing from one side to the other. Currency is another example, where in the space of 100metres, the legal tender changes from Euro to Turkish Lira; or mobile phone networks, where Turkish phones do not work on the Greek side and vice versa, different car insurance policies.........the list goes on. All this to say that the ongoing division of the island comes at a huge cost, both in economic and social terms.

39 years and counting this year since the island was divided, with minimal signs of progress or an intent to take steps towards resolution from either the Greek or Turkish sides of the island.