Letters from Cyprus: A visit to Abkhazia

This picture shows the lobby entrance of a hotel I recently stayed at in Sukhumi, the capital of Abkhazia. The images are a somewhat strange way to welcome guests to the hotel, but they reflect much about the region's history and present reality. Abkhazia is a separatist region of Georgia, situated on the Black Sea between Georgia proper to the south and Russia to the north. The region unilaterally declared independence after a war with Georgia over 20 years ago. Abkhazia is not formally recognised by any countries apart from neighbouring Russia and a scattering of small South Pacific islands, so the region remains in political limbo. Abkhazia is heavily influenced by Russia, and now hosts a number of large Russian military bases close to the border of neighbouring Georgia. The capital Sukhumi is only a few hours away from Sochi, the Russian city hosting the February 2014 Winter Olympics.

An old rusted cafe venue on the Black Sea

Travelling in Abkhazia feels a bit like being a time warp, and the evidence of war 20 years ago is still highly visible. Large numbers of houses vacated by Georgians who fled during and after the war remain empty and dilapidated. Likewise the large and now abandoned Soviet collective farms which were famous across the USSR for tea production and various other produce. Abkhazia was once the playground of the rich during Soviet times, but now faces chronic issues of poverty, ethnic tension, economic malaise and political uncertainty. On my recent visit I couldn't help thinking that when the Abkhaz fought their war for independence, the present status quo was not the outcome they had hoped for or anticipated.

The Baku city skyline

Following on from my visit to Abkhazia, I spent time with in meetings with staff and donors in Georgia and then travelled across to neighbouring Azerbaijan. Of all the countries I visit and where we have programs in the region, Azerbaijan is one that always challenges me. The contrast between Baku, where the government spend billions on public infrastructure and city beautification, and the rest of the country is immense. Freeways in Baku and some other parts of the country are bordered on both sides with elaborate architectural walls, many illuminated at night and creating what I heard someone refer to as a 'corridor of happiness' as you drive along. The unfortunate purpose of many of these walls seems to be to hide the poverty and slums that lie beyond. So in one sense it can seem like there is a false veneer in Azeri society.

Despite the infrastructure grandeur of Baku, the country still faces deep issues of poverty, discrimination and exclusion of vulnerable groups. These issues are far more pronounced and visible in rural areas away from Baku, but are also present in the capital itself. It seems there has been better progress in recent years, but there is much further to go, particularly in areas of disability, social services and civil society development.