Letters from Cyprus: A very Cypriot Easter

Last weekend we spent the Easter break staying on the north-west coast between the small villages of Latchi and Polis. Our accommodation was a basic but comfortable bungalow right on the beach. There was a cycle path from the front door, so this provided plenty of scope for bike riding and exploring the local area. The north-west of Cyprus is quite different to other parts of the island. There are some beautiful areas, both on the coast and inland, and we have always enjoyed spending time in this region. In general there is a lot less development, and walking through Polis you could be easily think it was still the 1980's (including the occasional flowing mullet hairdo).

Over the break we enjoyed bike rides, hiking on the Akamas Peninsula and swimming most days. Also the endless games of uno, especially with Anna who would happily play cards all day. We hired a boat one day to visit the some favourite spots along the coast. It was lovely to get away together as a family and rest.

The Epitafios is often carried around the village by soldiers

Easter is the most significant religious celebration in Cyprus throughout the year, and is marked by rituals throughout the weekend (and also in the lead up, and following Easter). On Friday night we visited the large Orthodox Church in the centre of Polis to look at the 'Epitafios', which is a large wooden structure, elaborately decorated with flowers, candles and linen and which is carried through the streets during Good Friday processions.

Angus on the pitch with the local Cypriot lads

Angus enjoyed playing football with some of the local lads while we waited for the Epitafios to leave the church. Alas the little kids did not last before the Epitafios left the church (3+ hour services are not uncommon in the Orthodox church), so we split and Sarah took half the family back to bed while I stayed with Angus. Orthodox services are interesting in that there is a constant stream of peoeple in and out of the church while the service is taking place. On Friday night there were just as many people outside the church than were actually inside.

The church in Polis

Among other rituals, Easter Saturday night is characterised by some fairly serious pyrotechnics, as large bonfires are lit in most villages nearby the churches. The fires signify the coming of the 'holy light' which arrives in Cyprus on Easter Saturday on a specially chartered flight from Jerusalem, where the ritual and 'miracle' of the holy light takes place in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre every Easter. The large fires also symbolise the burning of Judas. There are typically a number of injuries on the Saturday night, related to the use of firecrackers etc. Not too far away on the Greek Island of Chios, the Easter holy light celebrations are taken to a more extreme level each year, with the launch of thousands of 'rockets' between villages. See Euronews clip below from a few years ago for details, and this event continues to grow each year. No sign of any OH&S standards here! Makes our easter rituals in Australia seem tame in comparison.