An aborted climb

The view from the range on a clear day!

Last Sunday we set off with a few other families to climb Buffavento Castle, which is located on the mountain range to the north of Nicosia in the Turkish controlled territory.  Buffavento is situated at an altitude of almost 1000m, and has spectacular views of the island and all the way to the Turkish mainland on a clear day.  It stands between St Hilarion castle to the west and Kantara castle to the east, all of which were built in the 11th century as a defence against Arab raids.   As both of the other castles are visible from Buffavento, it was used to pass signals between them.  We've climbed St Hilarion castle several times, but alas Buffavento has eluded us until now.

The road to Buffavento travels close to the large Turkish-
Cypriot flag painted onto the mountains north of Nicosia 

Given the altitude of the castle the weather can change quickly.  We left Nicosia in bright sun, but by the time we had driven up the somewhat precarious path to the base of the climb (calling it a road would be generous!), we found ourselves in cloud we decided it would not be worth the climb to see nothing but fog. So we switched to plan B, which was to skirt around the northern side of the range and head for Bellapais.

Bellapais is a small village on the mountains above Kyrenia, and is the location for a beautiful old abbey that was build by monks in the 13th century.  Bellapais was also made famous by Lawrence Durrell, who lived there during the 1950's and wrote about it in his book 'The Bitter Lemons of Cyprus'.  The book makes reference to the 'tree of idleness', which was the place the villagers came to drink coffee each day (and all day)!  The supposed tree is still there today, and is understandably surrounded by a number of coffee houses and restaurants.

The Abbey at Bellapais
Author: www.martin-liebermann.de 
Prints from martin-liebermann.fineartamerica.com

An apt description of Bellapais can be found in the writings of W Hepworth Dixon, who in 1897 wrote:

"Perched on a mountainside, her terraces looking down into the gardens of Cerinia, and across the waters of Adana towards the glens and pastures of the Bulghar Dagh, her situation is no less lovely and secluded than herself.  Her name is Peace.  Nestling in woods, high above the port , her Anglo-Norman builders called her Peace - convent of Peace, or Cloiture de la Paix; a beautiful and soothing name, which the intruding Cypriots corrupted into Delapays, and their Venetian masters into Bellapaese.  Here during many ages, gallant Western man and pious Western women found their rest".

Bellapais is quite stunning, particularly at the end of the day when the light softens on the Abbey and you can sit and watch to sunset over the Mediterranean far below.  The recent September weather has also been a welcome change from the intense heat of summer.  Still warm with most days around mid 30's, but mornings and evenings cool.  We're enjoying this season and wanting to make the most of swimming before the weather cools off further in October.

Bellapais